The most often found problem in a no-start is lack of heat of compression. No heat of compression means no fuel vaporization and that means you may get a limp poof style ignition followed by fouled plugs and frustration. With fresh conventional style plugs like Autolite AR2592 gapped at .020" just use an oil squirt can and shoot in two good squirts of any brand cheap motor oil into each housing through the lower (Leading) plug holes. Spin the engine for a second to lube up the

side seals but with the ignition disabled. Install the plugs and prime the engine electronically or manually depending on your system. Fire it up.

 

Usually when I assist in person, I find that some people report that all is in order, but on review, all is not in order. Not for lack of trying on the owners part to be sure. If it trys to run, or seems to run as long as the starter is helping, you are on the right track. The rotary suffers from high leak rates while at cranking speed. So you get low compression readings. Check compression to be above 120 PSI. Then add the oil trick and look again. My race engines have less than stock compression due to late closing intake ports (85 degrees ABDC when 50 degrees ABDC for stock porting). They start in one revolution. Computer controlled engines need one revolution to find the start tooth.

 

If the prop is installed remove it.  Before starting, spin up oil pressure with the plugs removed and ignition disabled. Once you have oil pressure, put a spare plug on a plug wire and check for spark.

Always have a plug on the wire. Some ignition systems can be ruined by firing to an open circuit. Then proceed as above.

 

Once running, check for oil pressure first. Then check for coolant flow

at the outlet from the pump. Then run to operating temperature (Coolant) then let it cool to room temp and check coolant quantity and for oil and coolant leaks. If all is well repeat until you have 2 hours of actual run time for carbon or ceramic seals. 4 hours for stock iron seals. Engine should start nearly instantly in warmer weather. Cold weather starting is more difficult. Early engines had a bottle of antifreeze on the firewall. In cold weather this antifreeze was squirted into each housing to remove frost from the rotors and add some volume and sealing. Taking up volume adds to compression ratio.

 

When I first started racing rotaries, I had a junk engine actually out of a junk yard that was gifted to me because it had rolled off of a pile of engines and was blocking a lane. I had to pour in 1/2 cup of hot coffee and four squirts of motor oil to get a start. But it always started. It drew a crowd to watch me do it, but it always started. Later engines were much better.

 

Lynn E. Hanover 

 

Hi All,

I have been trying to start my engine for several weeks without success.  I would appreciate any suggestions.

New 1987 13b N/A engine

MicroTech LT-10 Ignition system

Engine spins well with starter

Fuel injectors work well and engine gets good fuel

I have checked all connections and good ground exists

I have checked crank angle sensor to make sure all marks were lined-up correctly

Problem:  All spark plugs fire, but rarely.  Each time each rotor spin twice, each plug will fire about once.  I have changed the crank angle sensor with another.  However, I am uncertain either one functions correctly.  I do not know if there is a way to check each one to see if they are correct?

Suggestions? 

Thanks.

Ken Johnson