X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from naeanrfkax04o.nmci.navy.mil ([138.162.5.142] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 6.0.7) with ESMTP id 6562758 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Thu, 24 Oct 2013 09:15:25 -0400 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=138.162.5.142; envelope-from=luis.i.luciano@navy.mil X-AuditID: 8aa2058d-b7f106d000004b2c-63-52691d4bb205 Received: from naeanrfkeg05v.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil (gate6-norfolk.nmci.navy.mil [138.162.0.46]) by naeanrfkax04o.nmci.navy.mil (Symantec Mail Security) with SMTP id 63.A6.19244.B4D19625; Thu, 24 Oct 2013 09:14:51 -0400 (EDT) x-mimeole: Produced By Microsoft Exchange V6.5 Content-class: urn:content-classes:message MIME-Version: 1.0 Subject: RE: [FlyRotary] Re: help starting engine Date: Thu, 24 Oct 2013 09:13:51 -0400 Content-Type: multipart/signed; protocol="application/x-pkcs7-signature"; micalg=SHA1; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0000_01CED099.57891B60" Message-ID: <6B1A555DC95A8E42942C5B48F311C142027C502B@naeanrfkez29v.nadsusea.nads.navy.mil> In-Reply-To: X-MS-Has-Attach: yes X-MS-TNEF-Correlator: Thread-Topic: [FlyRotary] Re: help starting engine Thread-Index: Ac7QchGbbpFwRkjdSgSRekv+viwf/QASK6Zg References: From: "Luciano, Luis I CIV PEOSUB, PMS404P" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" Return-Path: luis.i.luciano@navy.mil X-OriginalArrivalTime: 24 Oct 2013 13:13:52.0790 (UTC) FILETIME=[E2CCF360:01CED0BA] X-Brightmail-Tracker: H4sIAAAAAAAAA+NgFtrAIsWRmVeSWpSXmKPExsXStYhBT9dbNjPI4OU2DovFc/4wOzB69F7s ZwpgjOKySUnNySxLLdK3S+DKaO48xVpwIa5i/s2VrA2Mh8O6GDk5JARMJP68ucUOYYtJXLi3 nq2LkYtDSOAxo0TTzlVQCT2JVVP6wGxmAS2JI5eaGEFsXgFBiZMzn7CA2MIChhK7Lq5hBbFZ BFQlFq0/xA4yiFlgIqPEkj9b2SAaoiW+zb0H1sAJVLTl6h02iAUiEg8vnmaDueLfrodgtoiA kcSHjh3MMPa79ltMILaQgIrE9CXLgeZwcLAJuEo8uucHUWIrsfnQXriSjt37WSFGBktM/ryS aQKjyCwkL8xC8sIsZKfOAhrLDPRz20ZGiHp5ie1v5zBD2LYSL07dZ4ewFSWmdD+Ess0lnm05 x7KAkWMVo3JeYmpiXlFadmKFgYleXmJKcWlxaiKYASTKKvVyM3M2MYLjjrV3B+P1hVaHGAU4 GJV4eFm+pQcJsSaWFVfmHmJUAZr6aMPqC4xSLHn5ealKIrw7WDODhHhTEiurUovy44tKc1KL DzFKc7AoifMKJr8LFBJITyxJzU5NLUgtgskycXBKNTB2G7pyGjyfPtGRqeDwxxvNe59Kbcyx DeCLTS+TYb6l3rskuO2PlVSc1sWoD6HLORc1LrvYoKgXVsq4e2Z648lDbJfPOJ+6vi7fyeDA ppWpPNKzmBRe2f5g/Hr9dHaZ2S6mLi13y0VarAW2x4+c1mD2jlm4vu/9/GvreE6ktB5b8/wu 280Xaj+VWIozEg21mIuKEwF74tpdwwIAAA== This is a multipart message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0000_01CED099.57891B60 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Lynn - you always amaze me with your stories!! :) I am glad that you can bring such knowledge to this forum. Luis Luciano -----Original Message----- From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Lehanover@aol.com Sent: Thursday, October 24, 2013 12:32 AM To: Rotary motors in aircraft Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: help starting engine The most often found problem in a no-start is lack of heat of compression. No heat of compression means no fuel vaporization and that means you may get a limp poof style ignition followed by fouled plugs and frustration. With fresh conventional style plugs like Autolite AR2592 gapped at .020" just use an oil squirt can and shoot in two good squirts of any brand cheap motor oil into each housing through the lower (Leading) plug holes. Spin the engine for a second to lube up the side seals but with the ignition disabled. Install the plugs and prime the engine electronically or manually depending on your system. Fire it up. Usually when I assist in person, I find that some people report that all is in order, but on review, all is not in order. Not for lack of trying on the owners part to be sure. If it trys to run, or seems to run as long as the starter is helping, you are on the right track. The rotary suffers from high leak rates while at cranking speed. So you get low compression readings. Check compression to be above 120 PSI. Then add the oil trick and look again. My race engines have less than stock compression due to late closing intake ports (85 degrees ABDC when 50 degrees ABDC for stock porting). They start in one revolution. Computer controlled engines need one revolution to find the start tooth. If the prop is installed remove it. Before starting, spin up oil pressure with the plugs removed and ignition disabled. Once you have oil pressure, put a spare plug on a plug wire and check for spark. Always have a plug on the wire. Some ignition systems can be ruined by firing to an open circuit. Then proceed as above. Once running, check for oil pressure first. Then check for coolant flow at the outlet from the pump. Then run to operating temperature (Coolant) then let it cool to room temp and check coolant quantity and for oil and coolant leaks. If all is well repeat until you have 2 hours of actual run time for carbon or ceramic seals. 4 hours for stock iron seals. Engine should start nearly instantly in warmer weather. Cold weather starting is more difficult. Early engines had a bottle of antifreeze on the firewall. In cold weather this antifreeze was squirted into each housing to remove frost from the rotors and add some volume and sealing. Taking up volume adds to compression ratio. When I first started racing rotaries, I had a junk engine actually out of a junk yard that was gifted to me because it had rolled off of a pile of engines and was blocking a lane. I had to pour in 1/2 cup of hot coffee and four squirts of motor oil to get a start. But it always started. It drew a crowd to watch me do it, but it always started. Later engines were much better. Lynn E. Hanover In a message dated 10/23/2013 10:39:13 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, kjohnsondds@yahoo.com writes: Hi All, I have been trying to start my engine for several weeks without success. I would appreciate any suggestions. New 1987 13b N/A engine MicroTech LT-10 Ignition system Engine spins well with starter Fuel injectors work well and engine gets good fuel I have checked all connections and good ground exists I have checked crank angle sensor to make sure all marks were lined-up correctly Problem: All spark plugs fire, but rarely. Each time each rotor spin twice, each plug will fire about once. I have changed the crank angle sensor with another. However, I am uncertain either one functions correctly. I do not know if there is a way to check each one to see if they are correct? Suggestions? Thanks. 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