Return-Path: Received: from out008.verizon.net ([206.46.170.108] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.1.8) with ESMTP id 2996089 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Tue, 17 Feb 2004 14:44:53 -0500 Received: from netzero.net ([4.12.145.173]) by out008.verizon.net (InterMail vM.5.01.06.06 201-253-122-130-106-20030910) with ESMTP id <20040217194448.PIYI10003.out008.verizon.net@netzero.net> for ; Tue, 17 Feb 2004 13:44:48 -0600 Message-ID: <40326F2E.8030609@netzero.net> Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2004 14:44:46 -0500 From: Finn Lassen User-Agent: Mozilla/5.0 (Windows; U; Windows NT 5.1; en-US; rv:1.4) Gecko/20030624 Netscape/7.1 (ax; PROMO) X-Accept-Language: en-us, en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Rotary motors in aircraft Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Won't start -> Started! References: In-Reply-To: Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="------------080109010906040809080803" X-Authentication-Info: Submitted using SMTP AUTH at out008.verizon.net from [4.12.145.173] at Tue, 17 Feb 2004 13:44:48 -0600 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. --------------080109010906040809080803 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks for all the replies. Although I think the real problem is a weak battery, this is what I did: 0) Battery jumped to car battery (car running) while fiddeling with the below: 1) Blocked off better the unused center housing fuel injector holes. 2) Put a bit of sealant between engine block and manifold gasket, and between gasket and manifold. 3) Cleaned spark plugs a bit (out of stock at AutoZone). 4) Squirted some oil into each leading spark plug hole and intake ports 5) Squirted some gas through carbs into initake ports and the engine strarted! Ran it for a couple of minutes, shut it down and put on the prop and some other things. Wouldn't start again just before I left, but voltage dropped to below 8 volts, and I don't think the ignition contoller can live on that (I believe the internal voltage regulator needs at least 8.5 volts). Also the sparks gotta be less powerful at that voltage. Finn Richard wrote: > > When I tried to start my one-rotor for the first time, it took me one > whole day to solve the non existent compression problem. Everything > came out of my junk box including out of spec apex seals. To make a > long story short, a couple squirts of motor oil into one of the spark > plug holes made it start up every time. It never hurt the plugs. > Keep in mind, if you get fuel in there without firing up, it washes > out the oil from the seals and makes the compression even worse. > Other then compression, the rotary is very forgiving about > conditions for running, such a mixture and ignition timing. > > Richard Sohn > N-2071U > unicorn@gdsys.net > www.gdsys.net/WWWmembers/unicorn/ > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Jim Sower > To: Rotary motors in aircraft > Sent: Monday, February 16, 2004 10:42 PM > Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Won't start > > IMO starting fluid is like lots and lots of other things ... a > good practice, but a bad habit. If you have compression, a shot > of ether will start it and clear flooded plugs. I used it for > years and years in the auto repair business with NO bad results or > side effects. Don't use a whole lot, and don't run on it for any > significant time. A shot to clear floods and determine if engine > is capable or running. > Just a theory .... Jim S. > > Ed Anderson wrote: > >> I presume you ignition timing is set correctly and the correct >> wires are on the correct plugs. Since you are using a carb, it >> could be an air leak, but if you put fuel into the intake it >> should have started and ran until exhausting it - so not certain >> its your air path. Did you do a compression check? Do you get >> the usually "whoomp" sound when you pull the prop through?A bit >> more information would be good. Ed Ed Anderson >> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered >> Matthews, NC >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: Finn Lassen >> To: Rotary motors in aircraft >> >> Sent: Monday, February 16, 2004 2:28 PM >> Subject: [FlyRotary] Won't start >> Tried to start my just overhauled engine. >> Did cough a couple of times after I dumped a bit of fuel in >> through the intake ports. >> There is fuel in the carb bowls. >> May have an air leak somewhere in intake path. >> >> I think I read not to use ether, but use WD40 instead? >> >> Should I spray some Marvel Mystery Oil into the cambers to >> get better sealing? >> >> No more time to experiment today, so any tips for tomorrow >> are appreciated. >> >> Finn >> > -- > Jim Sower ... Destiny's Plaything > Crossville, TN; Chapter 5 > Long-EZ N83RT, Velocity N4095T > > --------------080109010906040809080803 Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Thanks for all the replies.

Although I think the real problem is a weak battery, this is what I did:
0) Battery jumped to car battery (car running) while fiddeling with the below:
1)  Blocked off better the unused center housing fuel injector holes.
2) Put a bit of sealant between engine block and manifold gasket, and between gasket and manifold.
3) Cleaned spark plugs a bit (out of stock at AutoZone).
4) Squirted some oil into each leading spark plug hole and intake ports
5) Squirted some gas through carbs into initake ports
and the engine strarted!

Ran it for a couple of minutes, shut it down and put on the prop and some other things.
Wouldn't start again just before I left, but voltage dropped to below 8 volts, and I don't think the ignition contoller can live on that (I believe the internal voltage regulator needs at least 8.5 volts). Also the sparks gotta be less powerful at that voltage.

Finn


Richard wrote:
 
When I tried to start my one-rotor for the first time, it took me one whole day to solve the non existent compression problem. Everything came out of my junk box including out of spec apex seals. To make a long story short, a couple squirts of motor oil into one of the spark plug holes made it start up every time. It never hurt the plugs.
Keep in mind, if you get fuel in there without firing up, it washes out the oil from the seals and makes the compression even worse.
Other then compression, the rotary is very forgiving about conditions for running, such a mixture and ignition timing.
 
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Sower
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2004 10:42 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Won't start

IMO starting fluid is like lots and lots of other things ... a good practice, but a bad habit.  If you have compression, a shot of ether will start it and clear flooded plugs.  I used it for years and years in the auto repair business with NO bad results or side effects.  Don't use a whole lot, and don't run on it for any significant time.  A shot to clear floods and determine if engine is capable or running.
Just a theory .... Jim S.

Ed Anderson wrote:

I presume you ignition timing is set correctly and the correct wires are on the correct plugs.  Since you are using a carb, it could be an air leak, but if you put fuel into the intake it should have started and ran until exhausting it - so not certain its your air path. Did you do a compression check?  Do you get the usually "whoomp" sound when you pull the prop through?A bit more information would be good. Ed Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, February 16, 2004 2:28 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Won't start
 Tried to start my just overhauled engine.
Did cough a couple of times after I dumped a bit of fuel  in through the intake ports.
There is fuel  in the carb bowls.
May have an air leak somewhere in  intake path.

I think I read not to use ether, but use WD40 instead?

Should I spray some Marvel Mystery Oil into the cambers to get better sealing?

No more time to experiment today, so any tips for tomorrow are appreciated.

Finn

--
Jim Sower ... Destiny's Plaything
Crossville, TN; Chapter 5
Long-EZ N83RT, Velocity N4095T
 

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