|
Lynn,
I think I know which parts to order to rebuild the 2nd gen P Port. I will stick to the stock Mazda parts and get the Mazda solid corner seals. A third gen oil pump might help. I have yet to finalize the injection system but am leaning toward megasquirt. Any helpful suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Joe Berki
Limo EZ
---- Lehanover@aol.com wrote:
> The rubber plugs vanish if you operate at high power settings for very
> long. They just barely last in a street engine. Some usually gone on each tear
> down. That is not the problem. The
> plug style corner seal is not very strong. All are powdered metal and under
> great stress, like a detonation event will crack. I have never found a
> stock solid seal broken. I have found the plug style broken many times. Just
> order the early solid corner seal. Not an after market solid seal. Mazda
> makes the best pieces in most cases.
>
> Chatter marks are from warn apex seal grooves, low spring pressure,
> overheated apex seals, low or no apex seal lubrication.
>
> Failed compression "O" rings have been over heated. I have never used an
> aftermarket "O" ring but as an emergency for a one weekend engine I have used
> Teflon or Kapton insulated 18 gage aircraft electrical wire as an "O" ring
> along with a very small bead of silicone in the groove.
>
> It is nearly impossible to get the water "O" ring to fail. (the outer black
> one).
>
> Ran that engine all year since it was not leaking at all. I always use the
> stock "O" rings, and even reuse them many times. 99% of the sealing is just
> the clamping forces between the housing and the iron.
>
> Racing Beat says to use 32 pounds of torque on the case bolts in boosted
> engines. Also no split timing, and not more than 12 degrees of advance in
> ignition timing. I would suggest over-rich mixtures for racing and full
> throttle climb out from low altitudes. Keeps things much cooler. More apex seal
> lubrication (if premixing). And even with Richards top oil adaptor I would
> premix just a bit more oil. The distribution is just much better in a
> premix.
>
> On street ported engines never turn them backwards unless you know that the
> builder radiused the bottom of the port to pick up the drooping trailing
> end of the side seals.
>
> Lynn E. Hanover
>
>
>
>
> In a message dated 11/5/2011 1:14:51 P.M. Paraguay Daylight Time,
> keltro@att.net writes:
>
> Concerning the corner seal rubber buttons it seems that they end up
> reverting back to carbon and
> lose all elasticity (particularity under high heat) and become useless for
> their original purpose which
> was to give slightly increased compression at starter speeds...........I
> personally will use the solid
> racing corner seals available from Mazda and other
> sources.................IMHO
>
|
|