Of the many things to think about is the oiling system and pieces.

 

That bypass valve that filter folks talk about is not a valve at all. Most filter spin on cans have the elements pressed against the top cover

(where the oil enters and leaves) by a spring. Oil flows into the can (through the small holes around the outside) and exits through the big center hole. There is a seal between the outer small holes and the inner big hole.

 

When the element loads up with dirt or bearing material, the pressure drop across the element forces the element away from the top plate against a spring in the bottom of the can. That spring is a real coil spring in good filters, and a flat (leaf) in cheap filters like Fram.

 

Where the can is mounted inverted, the heavy debris piles up around the plate end of the element. So when the element bypasses the oil can flow directly from the small holes to the big hole with no filtration at all.

And right there is all of that dying engine debris ready to go right back to the bearings. 

 

Where the can is mounted with the plate up, the heavy stuff is at the bottom of the can away from the plate. May not sound like much until

you arrive at over the trees at Podunk needing only 2 seconds more power to clear that last tree and make the runway. 

 

The remote mount is a weight penalty unless you needed more nose weight anyway. But provides more latitude on location and clearance.

The inverted element tends to trap foamed oil at low engine speeds, and save it as a dose of air and condensate for your next start up.

 

K&N filters have a 450 to 550 pound burst can and are used in most racing classes. They cost just slightly more than a good street filter and are available in any hot rod shop or mail order.

 

The Frams that Racing Beat suggests are really good filters, and I would be shocked to find that Fram actually makes them. Those filters are way too big for aircraft use and very heavy when full of oil. The usual filter stand is built to fit the Fram PH8A or Lee FL-1 Both Ford crosses from the 70s.  The center hole is 3/4 x 16 thread.

The NAPA 1515 also works just fine if you have a store close by.

About 9 GPM and 300 pound burst.

 

The airplane engine has a more severe duty cycle than a race car. It is

load limited to about 6,500 RPM at wide open throttle. So the heat is constant and high. The racer has long periods of closed throttle and even though the RPM may be much higher at times the cooling load is lighter than for the aircraft.  

 

We use one ounce per gallon of Red Line synthetic 2 cycle oil in the fuel. No wear, and never a failure. For 2 cycle nonsynthetics I would never go less than one ounce per gallon. And a bit more won't hurt anything.

Never use synthetic crank case oil in the fuel. It is very stable at high temps and will make black puddles under you exhaust pipe.  

 

I run on as usual.

 

Lynn E. Hanover 

 

One of these remote mounts bolted to the firewall solves a lot of problems.  Just cover the filter block mount point
with a chunk of aluminum and pipe oil from the remote mount into the port at the bottom of the engine below the port.  I
have an extra adapter to convert that port to AN if you want it, but you'll need two.  I think it was Mazda Trix that
sells them.

Andrew Martin wrote:
> Charlie, I made my own adapter that utilises stock filter, 20mm block
> drilled to reverse oil ports and accommodate pressure,temp and RD-1c ports.
> easy to do just mark oil ports from gasket on both sides of adapter
> block then drill holes at a 45° angle from each side, think about it as
> its not hard to do once you drill in the right direction.
>
> Andrew
>
>