Oh, I forgot to remind you about the fact that I had to machine a recess in the adapter plate to move the starter closer to then engine. I split the material to be removed between the adapter plate and the starter mounting flange. I asked the guy for .18 off of each, but that ended up at too much, and I then had to go back an make a spacer so the starter wouldn't hit the flywheel.
David
On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 10:00 PM, David Leonard <wdleonard@gmail.com> wrote:
Bolt-on would be a stretch, but not too much work either. Measurements were putting the distance between the damper spline and adapter plate at about zero (after the clutch wear surface was taken down). So just to be on the safe side I had the shop take a small bit off the spline while it was in the machine shop. Now there is a small gap. I think I only took off 0.01 or so... Less that half of the end flange (which I wanted to keep mostly intact to resist radial expansion of the spline.
I did not use the washers between the damper plate and flywheel. Currently, they won't fit as they are thicker than the gap between the spline and adapter plate. I could have easily taken a little more off the flywheel and/or spline and they would fit. But I don't really see their purpose anymore. The flywheel makes a nice surface for the dampers to lie against. I see little or no overhang past the flywheel mounting surface. Removing them also reduced the twisting moment on the bolts. Lastly, those washers were really wearing into the damper plate right at the rivets holding the damper support blocks.
The scars on the damper plate from the washers show that I was getting a good 3-4 mm of relative movement between the damper plate and the washers/flex plate. I think that much was not necessary. My silicone dampers are stiffer and there is now direct contact between the flywheel and damper plate so it is possible that I am not getting enough dampening and risk damaging the gears. Opinions?
On Mon, Aug 15, 2011 at 10:11 AM, Kelly Troyer <keltro@att.net> wrote:
Dave,
Also were you able to use the large washers between the damper/drive plate
and flywheel (as the silicone dampers overhang the outer edge of the flywheel
mounting area slightly) without triming the nose of the damper spline ??............
Kelly Troyer
"DYKE DELTA JD2" (Eventually)
"13B ROTARY"_ Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"MISTRAL"_Backplate/Oil Manifold
"TURBONETICS"_TO4E50 Turbo
From: Tracy <rwstracy@gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, August 15, 2011 9:38 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: First flight with new Flywheel
David,
Was it a bolt on change or was it necessary to shorten the nose of the damper spline to use this flywheel?
Still looking at options.
Tracy
Sent from my iPad
I finally took the new flywheel and silicone dampers out for a flight today. I was hoping for a slight improvement in idle and/or smoothness with the little bit of extra weight in the flywheel, but I guess 4 lbs is just not enough to make much of a difference. I flew around for about an hour and got the RPM up to 7000 and MAP up to 40 in., and loading the plane to 4G (thinking about gyroscopic forces) without any noticeable change in the way the engine sounded or ran. Everything look ship-shape on a post-flight examination.
This is the ACT flywheel that Kelly found for us. Looks bulletproof compared to a flex plate.
Next project, finish installing the ADI system.
--
David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
http://RotaryRoster.net
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