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Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2011 19:42:43 -0500
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=mMT0BZ20=ezuYLUvn9dp6xDU8TyTAd-teOj2X@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Cracking exhaust manifolds/ Crankcase ventilation
From: Mark Steitle <msteitle@gmail.com>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary=00151747bc20f0ca93049e6696aa

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Bevel washers... yes!  That would work even better.  Thanks for the
suggestion Lynn.

Mark

On Sun, Mar 13, 2011 at 6:47 PM, <Lehanover@aol.com> wrote:

>  In a message dated 3/13/2011 6:56:23 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> fluffysheap@gmail.com writes:
>
>  On my home spun exhaust for my 3-rotor, I tighten the exhaust studs for
> the center rotor, but only snug down the bolts for #1 and #3 in order to
> allow the exhaust manifold to grow and shrink as necessary.  With 1600-1700*
> EGT's, it seems obvious that the manifold will grow more than the engine and
> if not allowed to move, it will crack.  By torquing them only enough to
> prevent leakage, they are allowed to grow as needed, preventing cracks.  So
> far, no broken studs or cracked exhaust manifold on my 3-rotor.
>
> Mark S.
>
>
> Bingo.
>
> How about you torque up the center most stud to auto spec, then use 2 bevel
> washers flange to flange pulled down just short of flat on all other studs.
>
> Then use a short stack of bevel washers above and below a flange on the
> turbo setup to a strut to support the weight and keep the strain off of the
> manifold.
>
> Lynn E. Hanover
>
>

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Bevel washers... yes! =A0That would work even better. =A0Thanks for the sug=
gestion Lynn. =A0<div><br></div><div>Mark<br><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"=
>On Sun, Mar 13, 2011 at 6:47 PM,  <span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a href=3D"mailto:=
Lehanover@aol.com">Lehanover@aol.com</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1p=
x #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex;">



<div style=3D"font-family:Arial;color:#000000;font-size:10pt"><font color=
=3D"#000000" size=3D"2" face=3D"Arial">
<div>In a message dated 3/13/2011 6:56:23 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,=20
<a href=3D"mailto:fluffysheap@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank">fluffysheap@gmai=
l.com</a> writes:</div>
<blockquote style=3D"border-left:blue 2px solid;padding-left:5px;margin-lef=
t:5px"><font style=3D"background-color:transparent" color=3D"#000000" size=
=3D"2" face=3D"Arial">=A0On=20
  my home spun exhaust for my 3-rotor, I tighten the exhaust studs for the=
=20
  center rotor, but only snug down the bolts for #1 and #3 in order to allo=
w the=20
  exhaust manifold to grow and shrink as necessary. =A0With 1600-1700* EGT&=
#39;s,=20
  it seems obvious that the manifold will grow more than the engine and if =
not=20
  allowed to move, it will crack. =A0By torquing them only enough to preven=
t=20
  leakage, they are allowed to grow as needed, preventing cracks. =A0So far=
,=20
  no broken studs or cracked exhaust manifold on my 3-rotor. =A0=20
  <div><br></div>
  <div>Mark S.</div></font></blockquote></font></div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>Bingo.</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>How about you torque up the center most stud to auto spec, then use 2 =
bevel=20
washers flange to flange pulled down just short of flat on all other=20
studs.</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>Then use a short stack of bevel washers above and below a flange on th=
e=20
turbo setup to a strut to support the weight and keep the strain off of the=
=20
manifold.</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>Lynn E. Hanover</div>
<div></div>
<div>=A0</div>
</blockquote></div><br></div>

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