Why not take out the oil injection and go with the pre-mixed gas and oil? Crankcase oil is not optimum for the rotary and does not burn completely, leading to carbon build-up on the rotors and in high milage engines, uneven wear in the rotor housing surfaces. Premixing 1:100 2 stroke oil into the gas will give much more even distribution of oil throughout the combustion chamber and will burn much cleaner than crankcase oil injected into the trochoid chamber. Also, you'll save a small amount of weight for the injection pump and lines, and won't have to worry about the injection lines ever leaking again, because they won't be there.
That's my opinion, your results may vary.
-----Original Message-----
From: John <downing.j@sbcglobal.net>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Mon, Mar 29, 2010 5:10 pm
Subject: [FlyRotary] Oil Leak
Spring may be coming to Northern Michigan, it was 48 degrees today, so I pulled the 13B Tailwind out in the sun and let it warm up some. I finally got the engine to run, I thought I had it running well last fall, but it would only run with the cold start switch on and when I moved the program switch from 0, the engine quit, so must start over with the programming.
I started it up with the Weber 48 and it ran fine and I had a chance to find the oil leak, only took about a minute of running. I'm using the Mazda rotor oilers and one of the lines had a 3/4" split in it right above the valve. Is Mazdatrix the place that has the SS lines to replace the nylon lines. At first it looked like the leak was between the windage/motormount plate and the block, as there were 3 cap screws loose in that corner, so I removed them, drilled for safety wire and reinstalled. The engine had 10.3 hours on it today. JohnD