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Date: Mon, 20 Jul 2009 23:43:34 -0700
Message-ID: <1ab24f410907202343i23b7be1di7800a22e5a4caa40@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Hard starting.
From: Lynn Hanover <lehanover@gmail.com>
To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net
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Get the same results on A & B controller?

Tracy  (back from Colorado)

On Mon, Jul 20, 2009 at 9:18 PM, David Leonard <wdleonard@gmail.com> wrote:

> Yup, spins with no sign of firing at all!  It only spins easily by hand
> when the plugs are out..  otherwise it is a one-compression-at-a-time kind
> of exercise.  Compression is normal..  I am well familiar with its feel.
>
> I am currently leaning toward a intermittent condition with my CAS wiring
> or the bad gas/flooding issue.  At least it has made me think harder about
> my CAS as a single point failure and review the wiring.
>
> Thanks for all the suggestions.
>
> Dave Leonard


Cranking speed is important for starting a rotary. If cranking compression
has been reduced by a fuel flooding having removed all of the oil from the
working chamber, starting may not be possible.

Unresposive cranking with a soft sounding fluf or pop now and then is
typical. Poor fuel vaporization ends with fuel burning rather than the crisp
explosion required for starting. The heat of compression is required to
vaporize the fuel, so cranking speed affects leakdown time, and heat of
compression. Also slow cranking speed may limit CAS performance.

The racer has a jump battery port and two jump batteries in the tow tractor
used to start every time.

Battery plate area controls voltage drop while cranking. Starting may use
over 100 amps and drop battery voltage below minimums for some equipment.
The racer used a little garden tractor battery, and we ran an alternator off
of the differential pinion shaft, but you only get one or two starting
attempts with that little
battery. We lost one weekend because of that battery so I installed a group
24 paste battery and took out some ballast blocks. Never a problem since.
That car has not run for 3 years and the battery still cranks the engine up
just fine. I spin it now and then and add some oil to keep it alive.

A squirt of motor oil from the shop oil can into each housing, and a jump
battery to add plate area, and I bet it starts right up. On the other hand I
have two MSD-6ALs, so flooded or too lean makes no difference at all.

Lynn E. Hanover

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Get the same results on A &amp; B controller?<br><br>Tracy=A0 (back from Co=
lorado)<br><br>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Mon, Jul 20, 2009 at 9:18 PM, David Leonard <=
span dir=3D"ltr">&lt;<a title=3D"mailto:wdleonard@gmail.com" href=3D"mailto=
:wdleonard@gmail.com">wdleonard@gmail.com</a>&gt;</span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; MARGIN: 0pt 0=
pt 0pt 0.8ex; PADDING-LEFT: 1ex" class=3D"gmail_quote">Yup, spins with no s=
ign of firing at all!=A0 It only spins easily by hand when the plugs are ou=
t..=A0 otherwise it is a one-compression-at-a-time kind of exercise.=A0 Com=
pression is normal..=A0 I am well familiar with its feel.=A0 <br>
<br>I am currently leaning toward a intermittent condition with my CAS wiri=
ng or the bad gas/flooding issue.=A0 At least it has made me think harder a=
bout my CAS as a single point failure and review the wiring.<br><br>Thanks =
for all the suggestions.<br>
<br>Dave Leonard</blockquote>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>Cranking speed is important for starting a rotary. If cranking compres=
sion has been reduced by a fuel flooding having removed all of the oil from=
 the working chamber, starting may not be possible. </div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>Unresposive cranking with a soft sounding fluf or pop now and then is =
typical. Poor fuel vaporization ends with fuel burning rather than the cris=
p explosion required for starting. The heat of compression is required to v=
aporize the fuel, so cranking speed affects leakdown time, and heat of comp=
ression. Also slow cranking speed may limit CAS performance. </div>

<div>=A0</div>
<div>The racer has a jump battery port and two jump batteries in the tow tr=
actor used to start every time.</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>Battery plate area controls voltage drop while cranking. Starting may =
use over 100 amps and drop battery voltage below minimums for some equipmen=
t. The racer used a little garden tractor battery, and we ran an alternator=
 off of the differential pinion shaft, but you only get one or two starting=
 attempts with that little</div>

<div>battery. We lost one weekend because of that battery so I installed a =
group 24 paste battery and took out some ballast blocks. Never a problem si=
nce. That car has not run for 3 years and the battery still cranks the engi=
ne up just fine. I spin it now and then and add some oil to keep it alive. =
</div>

<div>=A0</div>
<div>A squirt of motor oil from the shop oil can into each housing, and a j=
ump battery to add plate area, and I bet it starts right up. On the other h=
and I have two MSD-6ALs, so flooded or too lean makes no difference at all.=
=A0=A0</div>

<div>=A0</div>
<div>Lynn E. Hanover</div></div>

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