Hi Bobby,
Ok, if I understand your set up correctly,
you are measuring oil pressure BEFORE the oil filter or the oil cooler –
right out of the engine? If that is correct continue to read – if I
misunderstood then this may not be applicable.
Your oil pressure sensor location may
account for what you are seeing. Most oil pressure references are
measured as the oil pressure goes back into the engine. You appear to be measuring
it at the opposite end of the lubrication system compared to where most measure
it.
The reason for choosing the oil
inlet to the engine point for pressure measurement is that point is where
lubrication system is providing pressure for the main bearings – so an important
reason the pressure is of most interest at that point. It really doesn’t
matter (not quite true – you do need the pump to be producing pressure) what
your oil pressure is on the output end of the pump – if the oil pressure
is not sufficient on the end where it flows back into the engine - where
the lubrication system feeds the bearings – then you could fry your
bearings.
An example – lets say your pump is
good, but your oil filter or oil cooler becomes partially blocked impeding flow
severely. If you are measuring pressure before those points you would
likely see your oil pressure increasing (due to the blocked flow) – which
could give you a false sense of security – because your bearings could be
starving for oil due to the blocked flow.
But, if your pressure sensor is not on the
inflow end of the lubrication system – you would have no direct
indication that your oil pressure has drop dangerously low. The higher
reading you would be getting from the other end would probably convince you
that all is OK. At least that is a scenario that I believe is possible.
So, In the traditional set up that
means that you have pressure drops (Losses) through your oil filter and your
oil cooler and the normal oil pressure after that (assuming a stock oil pressure
regulator) is around 70-80 psi above 4500-5000 rpm (or in that vicinity).
The oil pump end has a pressure controller that is supposed to pop and
release pressure if it senses pressure above 150 psi. That is NOT the
controller that regulates pressure for the system – only a safety release
say should your oil line becomes blocked (of course your bearings wouldn’t
live very long if that happened). The oil pressure regulator (normally set for a max of 80 psi
in a stock engine) is on the other end of the lubrication system at the point
the oil goes back into the engine. The point that provides oil to the
bearings – so perhaps not surprising that the regulator is located there.
The pressure
is suppose to be maintained steady by the oil pressure regulator– so no
matter what volume(flow) of oil (based on rpm) is going through the system the
pressure is held steady by the oil pressure regulator on the inflow end.
So I suspect that because your oil
pressure sensor appears to be on the pump end of the system and not on
the end where the pressure regulator is located that you are seeing perturbations
to oil pressure (and because you don’t have the oil filter and cooler
drops) and higher oil pressure than most of us do.
Now the pressure drops through the oil
filter and oil cooler may not be linear with flow rate (which would dependent on
oil pump/engine rpm ) or temperature (viscosity) of the oil.
I suspect that the cooler the oil is, the
more resistance it finds in flowing through the oil filter and oil
cooler. Therefore you would see more pressure on the pump end due to this
resistance, but as the oil warmed up and flow through the filter and cooler
easier then the pressure build up before those components would drop as would
your oil pressure.
Because of your oil pressure sensor
location and the factors I mentioned above, I would expect you to see higher
oil pressure and a wider range to the perturbations to your oil pressure based
on temps than most of us see.
Since you are not using the stock Rx-7 oil
cooler, then my comments about the effect of the thermostat on oil pressure may
not be applicable.
At least, this is the way it appears to
me. Others may have a different view point
Ed
From: Rotary motors in aircraft
[mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On
Behalf Of Bobby J. Hughes
Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2008
9:21 PM
To: Rotary
motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: New
Engine Break In with Gearbox -- for Tracy
Tracy,
With the Advanced EFIS / engine monitor
all of the instruments are factory calibrated and so far have been
correct. Oil pressure is being read directly out of the engine before the
oil filter and oil / water exchanger. I made a quick run to the airport this
afternoon and made another 15 minute ground with the inlet ducts blocked. I was
able to get the water up to 200F and climbing and oil to 165F. OAT was 75F Oil
pressure varied from 65 at idle to 105 psi at 6000 rpm. On earlier ground runs
to 7500 rpm I was only able to get the oil to 144F and water to 177F. OAT was
65F or less. and oil pressure in the 110-120 range. Warming the oil up did
seem to make a difference.
Ed,
"Bobby, depending of where your oil pressure sensor is located
(before or after the oil cooler – assuming a stock Rx-7 oil cooler with
internal thermostat). IF you have removed the thermostat in the oil
cooler and have not blocked that thermostat opening, then a lot of the oil will
not flow through the several passages through the cooler core. This could
mean you are not getting the normal pressure drop across the oil cooler which
if your sensor is down stream would mean higher pressure at the sensor –
but probably not more than 5 – 10 psi."
No thermostat in the oil or water
circuits. If the sensor placement is making a 10 psi difference then the
problem may not exist. My remote oil filter adapter has two inlets and two
outlets. I am using the second inlet for oil pressure and the second outlet
will be used to monitor the before oil cooler temp with the EM3. No room at the
engine oil pad adapter block for the pressure sender so this location was easy.
It's visible in one of the photos.
Bobby
From: Rotary motors in aircraft
[mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On
Behalf Of Tracy Crook
Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2008
11:31 AM
To: Rotary
motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: New
Engine Break In with Gearbox -- for Tracy
Odd problems. Peak
Oil pressure should not be significantly affected by temperature or oil
weight. What is it? Lower viscosity oil is not a
solution. Are you sure the instruments are right / calibrated?
Tracy
On Wed, Dec 3, 2008 at 11:04 AM, Bobby J. Hughes <bhughes@qnsi.net> wrote:
I am having a problem getting my oil temps
up and oil pressure down without an oil thermostat. Will try blocking some
of the air flow this weekend. Is 10W-40 or 10W-30 to light for the
gearbox during the winter months? I plan to run the engine for at least
20 hours on the ground and switch back to Mobil 1 for first flight.
Bobby
From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]
On Behalf Of Tracy Crook
Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2008
9:12 AM
To: Rotary
motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: New
Engine Break In with Gearbox -- for Tracy
Next best in mineral oil
is Shell Rotella. 15W - 50 or similar.
Tracy
On Wed, Dec 3, 2008 at 9:18 AM, Bobby J. Hughes <bhughes@qnsi.net> wrote:
What oil do you recommend for breaking in a new engine that
is also acceptable for the
gearbox? Bruce T said to replace the Mobile 1
for 10-15 hours so the apex seals will seat.
Bobby J Hughes
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