X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from imo-d20.mx.aol.com ([205.188.139.136] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.2.2) with ESMTP id 2875795 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Mon, 28 Apr 2008 16:14:39 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.188.139.136; envelope-from=BMears9413@aol.com Received: from BMears9413@aol.com by imo-d20.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38_r9.3.) id q.d6a.25824e96 (37529) for ; Mon, 28 Apr 2008 16:13:51 -0400 (EDT) Received: from FWM-D01 (fwm-d01.webmail.aol.com [205.188.160.193]) by cia-mb01.mx.aol.com (v121.4) with ESMTP id MAILCIAMB012-929948162fff8a; Mon, 28 Apr 2008 16:13:51 -0400 References: To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] How loose or tight should an engine be? Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 16:13:51 -0400 X-AOL-IP: 65.182.71.8 In-Reply-To: X-MB-Message-Source: WebUI MIME-Version: 1.0 From: bmears9413@aol.com X-MB-Message-Type: User Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="--------MB_8CA7783826F54EE_FF4_383E_FWM-D01.sysops.aol.com" X-Mailer: AOL Webmail 36240-STANDARD Received: from 65.182.71.8 by FWM-D01.sysops.aol.com (205.188.160.193) with HTTP (WebMailUI); Mon, 28 Apr 2008 16:13:51 -0400 Message-Id: <8CA7783825EA45C-FF4-1BDE@FWM-D01.sysops.aol.com> X-Spam-Flag: NO ----------MB_8CA7783826F54EE_FF4_383E_FWM-D01.sysops.aol.com Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Phil, Somethings not right. I would start by just taking the front shaft bolt loose and see if the engine frees up. If so you probably have a needle bearing, needle bearing plate, or endplay spacer out of whack. Not hard to repair now. If you end up removing all the parts under the front cover and it still binds, the problem will be in the rotors. You did press the oil rings in the rotors I assume. the oil ring O rings must go over the "lip" to seat correct. If not the put lots of pressure on the irons. Bob Mears -----Original Message----- From: Phil White To: Rotary motors in aircraft Sent: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 12:45 pm Subject: [FlyRotary] How loose or tight should an engine be? I finished rebuilding my 20B some weeks ago, using Bruce's video as a guide, and since then I've read someone's post stating that he was able to turn over his engine with a bare hand on the eccentric shaft.? ? I put in Tracy's new apex seals. As I assembled the engine, it was easy to turn with one rotor in and one side plate, much stiffer with 2 plates and 2 rotors. Once I had all 3 rotors in and 4 side plates bolted together and torqued, I could only turn the engine over using a 15" wrench on the acces end nut, and applying maybe 75 ft lbs of force. I used the recommended lubes on bearings and housings.? ? ? Is this normal? Or did I mess up some part of the assembly process that leads to so much drag with only rotors and shaft being turned (no accessories installed yet)?? ? ? Any suggestions would be welcome (but I hope I don't have to disassemble the whole thing again!)? ? Phil 20B to install in an RV-10 in IL? ? --? Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/? Archive and UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html? ----------MB_8CA7783826F54EE_FF4_383E_FWM-D01.sysops.aol.com Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Phil,
Somethings not right. I would start by just taking the front shaft bolt loose and see if the engine frees up. If so you probably have a needle bearing, needle bearing plate, or endplay spacer out of whack. Not hard to repair now. If you end up removing all the parts under the front cover and it still binds, the problem will be in the rotors. You did press the oil rings in the rotors I assume. the oil ring O rings must go over the "lip" to seat correct. If not the put lots of pressure on the irons.

Bob Mears


-----Original Message-----
From: Phil White <philwhite9@aol.com>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 12:45 pm
Subject: [FlyRotary] How loose or tight should an engine be?

I finished rebuilding my 20B some weeks ago, using Bruce's video as a guide, and since then I've read someone's post stating that he was able to turn over his engine with a bare hand on the eccentric shaft. 
 
I put in Tracy's new apex seals. As I assembled the engine, it was easy to turn with one rotor in and one side plate, much stiffer with 2 plates and 2 rotors. Once I had all 3 rotors in and 4 side plates bolted together and torqued, I could only turn the engine over using a 15" wrench on the acces end nut, and applying maybe 75 ft lbs of force. I used the recommended lubes on bearings and housings. 
 
  Is this normal? Or did I mess up some part of the assembly process that leads to so much drag with only rotors and shaft being turned (no accessories installed yet)? 
 
  Any suggestions would be welcome (but I hope I don't have to disassemble the whole thing again!) 
 
Phil 20B to install in an RV-10 in IL 
 
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