Don,
It could be something else, but my plan is to grind the
flange down to a gap of .020 and try it. It will be a bitch to get
to.
I would not grind anything
yet. The stock location is correct as Dennis and Tracy are using
it with no modifications. There is a quirk with the EC2 and the Renesis CAS that
may require a couple of resistors and a zener diode at higher rpm ranges. But I
believe Tracy has an upgrade to correct the issue. It does not effect the
engine at start or below 4500 rpms if I remember correctly. Mark Steitle
fabricated a Renesis CAS bracket and adopted it for his 20B so it is an
entirely different animal. The 20b does not have a place to bolt up the CAS like
the Renesis.
One thing you can check is to make sure the CAS
has not collected any metal dust or shavings as that will have an effect
on the signal.
Bobby
From: Rotary motors in aircraft
[mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Don
Wallker
Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 9:18 PM
To: Rotary
motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] flooding
I made it out to the airport today, soldered up the
CAS and installed it. Before I cranked it over, I put it in mode 8 and
fired it off. The usual nice blue sparks. Then set it to mode 0 and
cranked with the plugs out and pumps/inj off. No spark. Cranked and
looked again. Every so often there would be a weak spark or 3, but most of
the time, nothing. So little or no spark. I measured the gap between
the CAS and the wheel and I get between .045 and .050 (I don't have the
right feeler gauges). This contrasts with Mark having to move his CAS to
.020 to make it work. The flange that the CAS sets on is part of the
cast casing and is machined flat where the CAS is bolted in. It looks like
this sould be the correct setting and would never have concidered this to be the
problem (still don't know for sure if it is) if Mark hadn't mentioned it.
Have any of you Renesis people run into this? Some possibilities are that
it needs a smaller gap for the EC-2. or that this being a "grey market" engine,
they let the builder figure it out the spacing. It could be something
else, but my plan is to grind the flange down to a gap of .020 and try it.
It will be a bitch to get to. I can add spacers if I need to move it back
out. Anyone else have any suggestions as what else might be the problem?
Bill, Tracy and Dennis, did you have this problem with spacing on the
Renesis, or did you just install the stock CAS and go? I checked
the factory Manual on CD and they have no specs on the gap. BTW no RPM
display at these low cranking speeds. Lynn, I am running a stock 13b
autotrans starter. It cranks well, until the battery runs down. Yes,
I have my 12 lb Catto prop installed. I put a little oil into the plugs
holes before cranking.
Dennis, I'll put that inverted drain valve at the
top of the radiator housing this weekend. I also have 2 air purge lines,
one running from the rear top of the engine and the other from the radiator,
radiator cap, both going up to the surge tank to purge air out of the
system. Bob, I think your harnesses are fine! Picked up some
Marvel MM oil for squirting into the plug holes. Bill, I have been
cleaning my plugs with carb cleaner, then blowing them dry. If that
doesn't work, I'll use the rice hulls. I will attempt to fire it off once the
urathane sets and I get the flange cut down. Guys, thanks for all the
suggestions! I'll keep you posted.
Don Walker