Don, I have the Renesis with stock
Iridium plugs. While I was trying to learn to start it, I flooded the engine.
I removed the plugs, blew them out to dry them, ran the engine to blow out any
residual gas and tried again….Same thing…flooding. I repeated
this several times hoping for a different result. :>) No luck!
I was about to try new plugs, when I decided
to take the old ones over to a friends shop and sand blast them. (be sure
to get all the sand out!)
I put the plugs back in and it fired
right up! When the Renesis plugs get fouled, they are difficult to
clean. Try it…It worked for me.
Bill B
From: Rotary
motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Lehanover@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008
11:09 PM
To: Rotary
motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re:
Floooooding!
In a message dated
1/1/2008 9:13:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tracy@rotaryaviation.com writes:
On Jan 12, 2008, at 7:47 PM, Don Wallker
wrote:
> The list has been a little quiet lately, so I hope this will liven
> it up a little. I'm at a loss as to how to get my engine running,
> so hopefully you guys will have the correct answer. Or at least
> move me in the right direction.
> My Renesis RV-8 is complete and I tried starting it 2 weeks
ago
> and all I could get it to do is flood. First a little background
> on the installation.
> New Renesis, 4 port automatic from Bruce Turrentine.
He does
> nice work! All Tracy's
stuff with all the new upgrades and I have
> installed a floscan fuel flow sensor with the wiring changes
> between the EM-2 and EC-2.
I had a junk yard (literally from a junk
yard) engine in an RX-2 years ago, that had no compression. To start it I would
pour in some motor oil and some hot coffee. Then pump the throttle to get a
bunch of fuel into the mixture. It started every time. It put out a
cloud of smoke like a 3350.
The new engine has no peripheral exhaust
port. So instead of pumping out any big dose of fuel into the headers, it keeps
dragging it over the plugs and wetting them in one revolution.
Turn on the ignition and turn off
the injectors. Hook up the timing light and point it at the pulley. Crank the
engine and check the timing. If there is spark, the light will work just fine.
Any timing between TDC and 30 degrees advanced, will work fine for starting. I doubt
that with extended attempts with fuel removing any oil from the seals, that it
has enough compression (heat of compression) to produce an
energetic firing. A big wham......with lots of crankshaft spinning is what
you want to see.
Don't let it sit for long after a
failure. The seals will rust in place very quickly. Some of the ports are
always open to the air. So a cap for the exhaust system is helpful.
If the test shows it has spark, squirt in
some oil. Spin it up and flick a set of injectors on and off again.
The rotary is far more sensitive to
compression loss than a piston engine. So, cranking speed is important.
The seals are long and leak a lot. Low
cranking speed is a no start situation. So the oil gag helps seal it up and
make some compression.
If the timing is anywhere close. If the
plugs are clean. If it gets almost any amount of fuel, if it has at least some
compression, it will start. It cannot help itself.
Either conducts electricity, and wets
plugs instantly. It is for starting diesels that have become too cold.
After it has run a while and worn off the
high spots, it will be easy to start. My fresh engines peak about the third
weekend. This after running at 2,000 RPM for 2 hours before use.