X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from imo-m23.mx.aol.com ([64.12.137.4] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.2c4) with ESMTP id 2627400 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Tue, 01 Jan 2008 23:09:03 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=64.12.137.4; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from Lehanover@aol.com by imo-m23.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38_r9.3.) id q.c87.200da6f3 (48576) for ; Tue, 1 Jan 2008 23:08:22 -0500 (EST) From: Lehanover@aol.com Message-ID: Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 23:08:37 EST Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Floooooding! To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="-----------------------------1199246917" X-Mailer: 9.0 Security Edition for Windows sub 5378 X-Spam-Flag: NO -------------------------------1199246917 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 1/1/2008 9:13:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, tracy@rotaryaviation.com writes: On Jan 12, 2008, at 7:47 PM, Don Wallker wrote: > The list has been a little quiet lately, so I hope this will liven > it up a little. I'm at a loss as to how to get my engine running, > so hopefully you guys will have the correct answer. Or at least > move me in the right direction. > My Renesis RV-8 is complete and I tried starting it 2 weeks ago > and all I could get it to do is flood. First a little background > on the installation. > New Renesis, 4 port automatic from Bruce Turrentine. He does > nice work! All Tracy's stuff with all the new upgrades and I have > installed a floscan fuel flow sensor with the wiring changes > between the EM-2 and EC-2. I had a junk yard (literally from a junk yard) engine in an RX-2 years ago, that had no compression. To start it I would pour in some motor oil and some hot coffee. Then pump the throttle to get a bunch of fuel into the mixture. It started every time. It put out a cloud of smoke like a 3350. The new engine has no peripheral exhaust port. So instead of pumping out any big dose of fuel into the headers, it keeps dragging it over the plugs and wetting them in one revolution. Turn on the ignition and turn off the injectors. Hook up the timing light and point it at the pulley. Crank the engine and check the timing. If there is spark, the light will work just fine. Any timing between TDC and 30 degrees advanced, will work fine for starting. I doubt that with extended attempts with fuel removing any oil from the seals, that it has enough compression (heat of compression) to produce an energetic firing. A big wham......with lots of crankshaft spinning is what you want to see. Don't let it sit for long after a failure. The seals will rust in place very quickly. Some of the ports are always open to the air. So a cap for the exhaust system is helpful. If the test shows it has spark, squirt in some oil. Spin it up and flick a set of injectors on and off again. The rotary is far more sensitive to compression loss than a piston engine. So, cranking speed is important. The seals are long and leak a lot. Low cranking speed is a no start situation. So the oil gag helps seal it up and make some compression. If the timing is anywhere close. If the plugs are clean. If it gets almost any amount of fuel, if it has at least some compression, it will start. It cannot help itself. Either conducts electricity, and wets plugs instantly. It is for starting diesels that have become too cold. After it has run a while and worn off the high spots, it will be easy to start. My fresh engines peak about the third weekend. This after running at 2,000 RPM for 2 hours before use. Lynn E. Hanover **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) -------------------------------1199246917 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
In a message dated 1/1/2008 9:13:21 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,=20 tracy@rotaryaviation.com writes:
<= FONT=20 style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size= =3D2>On Jan=20 12, 2008, at 7:47 PM, Don Wallker wrote:

> The list has been a=20 little quiet lately, so I hope this will liven
> it up a little.=20  I'm at a loss as to how to get my engine running,
> so hopeful= ly=20 you guys will have the correct answer. Or at least
> move me in the=20 right direction.
>     My Renesis RV-8 is complete and I t= ried=20 starting it 2 weeks ago
> and all I could get it to do is flood.=20  First a little background
> on the installation.
>  = ;=20   New Renesis, 4 port automatic from Bruce Turrentine.  He=20 does
> nice work!  All Tracy's stuff with all the new upgrades=20= and=20 I have
> installed a floscan fuel flow sensor with the wiring=20 changes
> between the EM-2 and EC-2.  
 
I had a junk yard (literally from a junk yard) engine in an RX-2 years=20= ago,=20 that had no compression. To start it I would pour in some motor oil and some= hot=20 coffee. Then pump the throttle to get a bunch of fuel into the mixture. It=20 started every time. It put out a cloud of smoke like a 3350.
 
The new engine has no peripheral exhaust port. So instead of pumping ou= t=20 any big dose of fuel into the headers, it keeps dragging it over the plugs a= nd=20 wetting them in one revolution.
 
Turn on the ignition and turn off the injectors. Hook up the timin= g=20 light and point it at the pulley. Crank the engine and check the timing. If=20 there is spark, the light will work just fine. Any timing between TDC and 30= =20 degrees advanced, will work fine for starting. I doubt that with extended=20 attempts with fuel removing any oil from the seals, that it has enough=20 compression (heat of compression) to produce an energetic firing. A big= =20 wham......with lots of crankshaft spinning is what you want to see.
Don't let it sit for long after a failure. The seals will rust in place= =20 very quickly. Some of the ports are always open to the air. So a cap for the= =20 exhaust system is helpful.
 
If the test shows it has spark, squirt in some oil. Spin it up and flic= k a=20 set of injectors on and off again.
 
The rotary is far more sensitive to compression loss than a piston engi= ne.=20 So, cranking speed is important.
The seals are long and leak a lot. Low cranking speed is a no start=20 situation. So the oil gag helps seal it up and make some compression.
 
If the timing is anywhere close. If the plugs are clean. If it gets alm= ost=20 any amount of fuel, if it has at least some compression, it will start. It=20 cannot help itself.
 
Either conducts electricity, and wets plugs instantly. It is for starti= ng=20 diesels that have become too cold.
 
After it has run a while and worn off the high spots, it will be easy t= o=20 start. My fresh engines peak about the third weekend. This after running at=20 2,000 RPM for 2 hours before use.  
 
Lynn E. Hanover 
 
 
 



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