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Tracy,
Unpotting means cutting out the terribly tough
marine urethane that I pored into the CAS after I soldered in the wires. I
didn't destroy it and will solder it back in and will repot with something a
little less tough. Anyone out there know where to got the correct quick
disconnect for the CAS? I am using the stock CAS and timing
wheel.
After reading what you and Mark had to say, I am
leaning toward No spark when I am cranking it. Was fooled by the test mode
and will check when I get back out ito the airport in a couple of days. I
tried start it with starting fluid and it seemed to act like it was
trying. Don't know how to test for cranking speed. Hopefully it will
read that low on the EM-2. Haven't checked compression with a tester, but
it "feels right" based on what other guys on the list have said. What is
the correct compression and do I test like in a piston engine? I have used
the individual inj disable switches and have checked all individual injectors in
test mode continuous and using program button. I will check the gap
between the wheel and the sensor, but this is fixed as per the factory as far as
I can tell. Only one way to mount the CAS. The wheel is
the factory one and the holes are set up so it will only mount
one way.
Some of the methods I have used to avoid flooding
are to crank and then turn on the injectors, of course using all combinations
program button, cold start and not, mixture at various settings from lean to
full rich and throttle at various openings. Keep it coming.
I'll keep you posted.
Thanks again guys,
Don
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