X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from mail01.syd.optusnet.com.au ([211.29.132.182] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.2c1) with ESMTPS id 2554160 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Mon, 03 Dec 2007 16:39:44 -0500 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=211.29.132.182; envelope-from=lendich@optusnet.com.au Received: from george (d211-31-79-212.dsl.nsw.optusnet.com.au [211.31.79.212]) by mail01.syd.optusnet.com.au (8.13.1/8.13.1) with SMTP id lB3Lcjrt016637 for ; Tue, 4 Dec 2007 08:38:49 +1100 Message-ID: <004001c835f4$e61690b0$d44f1fd3@george> From: "George Lendich" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" References: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Porting tools? Date: Tue, 4 Dec 2007 07:38:49 +1000 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_003B_01C83648.B5866C50" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2900.2180 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2180 X-Antivirus: avast! (VPS 0657-0, 12/12/2006), Outbound message X-Antivirus-Status: Clean This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_003B_01C83648.B5866C50 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Phil, Like Ed says a template is good if you have one, personally I would = check any template using Lynn's suggested method ( just in case). Basically seals ( especially apex seals) don't like running over holes = (voids). Also as Lynn said an early opening increases overlap and = exhaust contamination and a late closing can add to inlet back pressure. One suggestion to me was that early opening doesn't give much advantage. = I would leave the opening as it is ( although there are differences, in = different models) I would select the lowest ( earliest) standard opening = and work from there. I say this because I got a template from a = professional and found the lowest point to be standard in 12 Housings - = funny that. You can't go too high or you run out of inlet wall. I have seen porting = ground past the wall and into the water jacket. I have also seen that = welded- up with a welder experienced in cast iron welding. Paul Yaw's web sit has the degrees and you can use Lynn's degree wheel = method. I made my own degree wheel. George ( down under) Hi Phil Several have already offered good advise on bits and tools to do the = porting job, so I won't try to add to that. However, one question I do = have is do you have a template to draw the outline of the port? I = recommend one highly - particularly if this is your first porting job. Porting is fairly easy provided you are careful with the tools and go = gently - don't try to hog out to much at one pass. I put several layers = of duct tape on the running surface of the side housing all the way up = to the outline of the new port - if a bit gets away from you - this = tape (or something similar) can prevent damage to the running surfaces = by a run-a-way bit. Believe me it can easily happen. I found that out = - fortunately on an old junk housing I practiced on. Ed. =20 ----- Original Message -----=20 From: wrjjrs@aol.com=20 To: Rotary motors in aircraft=20 Sent: Monday, December 03, 2007 11:14 AM Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Porting tools? Phil, Unless you have the patience of Job don't try to port with a Dremel. = It's a fine tool but only for very small work. You need to get a 1/4" = die grinder or drill motor. Mikita makes a electric 1/4" die grinder. = This is a fine tool, I've been using the same one for 20 YEARS! I also = use a flex shaft drill motor with a ball bearing hand piece, again 1/4". = Mine is from Domore, but it's ancient. Recovered from a dig like 20+ = years ago. It has a foot pedal speed control. I saw a good looking one = just like it at a local Woodcraft store @ about $300 for the kit. The = cheapest way is the Mikita. You will also need some carbide burrs. = Google 1/4" shank carbide die grinding burrs. There are many types. The = diamond pattern removes material fastest, and the straight flute = smoothes the best. Lots of people polish but it isn't really needed. I = like a bead blasted finish personally, but mask carefully or you can = ruin the running surface. There are as many ways to do this as people = doing it! Good luck. remember max size isn't as important as making all = the ports the same size, be consistent.=20 Bill Jepson PS. A variable speed unit helps prevent getting into a vibration = phase for the cutter and getting "jitters" FWIW=20 -----Original Message----- From: Phil White To: Rotary motors in aircraft Sent: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 9:21 pm Subject: [FlyRotary] Porting tools? For those who have done porting on the cast iron end housings; what = bits/stones/burrs did you use to open up the intake ports? Does it take = several types? Which for rough cuts; which for polishing up? I'm ready = to work on my 20B, and want to do a mild street port on the intakes. I = have a 'dremel' hi-speed tool, but my bit selection is down to 1 or 2 = left. What to buy??=20 Phil in IL RV-10 in process=20 =20 --=20 Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/=20 Archive and UnSub: = http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html=20 -------------------------------------------------------------------------= --- More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail! -------------------------------------------------------------------------= ----- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition.=20 Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.11/1161 - Release Date: = 30/11/2007 12:12 PM ------=_NextPart_000_003B_01C83648.B5866C50 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Phil,
Like Ed says a template is good if you have one, personally I would = check=20 any template using Lynn's suggested method ( just in case).
 
Basically seals ( especially apex seals) don't like running over = holes=20 (voids). Also as Lynn said an early opening increases overlap and = exhaust=20 contamination and a late closing can add to inlet back pressure.
 
One suggestion to me was that early = opening doesn't=20 give much advantage. I would leave the opening as it is ( although there = are=20 differences, in different models) I would select the lowest ( earliest)=20 standard opening and work from there. I say this = because I got=20 a template from a professional and found the lowest point to be standard = in 12=20 Housings - funny that.
 
You can't go too high or you run out of = inlet wall.=20 I have seen porting ground past the wall and into the water = jacket. I have=20 also seen that welded- up with a welder experienced in cast = iron=20 welding.
 
Paul Yaw's web sit has the degrees and = you can use=20 Lynn's degree wheel method. I made my own degree wheel.
 
George ( down under)

Hi Phil
 
Several have already offered good advise on = bits and=20 tools to do the porting job, so I won't try to add to that.  = However, one=20 question I do have is do you have a template to draw the outline of = the=20 port? I recommend one highly - particularly if this is your first = porting=20 job.
 
 Porting is fairly easy provided you are = careful=20 with the tools and go gently - don't try to hog out to much at one = pass. =20 I put several layers of duct tape on the running surface of the side = housing=20 all the way up to the outline of the new port - if a bit gets away = from you -=20  this tape (or something similar) can prevent damage to the = running=20 surfaces by a run-a-way bit.  Believe me it can easily = happen.  I=20 found that out - fortunately on an old junk housing I practiced=20 on.
 
Ed. 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 wrjjrs@aol.com=20
To: Rotary motors in = aircraft=20
Sent: Monday, December 03, = 2007 11:14=20 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: = Porting=20 tools?

Phil,
Unless you have the patience of Job don't try to port with a = Dremel.=20 It's a fine tool but only for very small work. You need to get a = 1/4" die=20 grinder or drill motor.  Mikita makes a electric 1/4" die = grinder. This=20 is a fine tool, I've been using the same one for 20 YEARS! I = also use a=20 flex shaft drill motor with a ball bearing hand piece, again 1/4". = Mine is=20 from Domore, but it's ancient. Recovered from a dig like 20+ years=20 ago. It has a foot pedal speed control. I saw a good looking = one just=20 like it at a local Woodcraft store @ about $300 for the = kit. The=20 cheapest way is the Mikita. You will also need some carbide burrs.=20 Google 1/4" shank carbide die grinding burrs. There are many = types. The=20 diamond pattern removes material fastest, and the straight flute = smoothes=20 the best. Lots of people polish but it isn't really needed. I like a = bead=20 blasted finish personally, but mask carefully or you can ruin the = running=20 surface. There are as many ways to do this as people doing it!=20 Good luck. remember max size isn't as important as making = all the=20 ports the same size, be consistent.
 
Bill Jepson
PS. A variable speed unit helps prevent getting into a = vibration=20 phase for the cutter and getting "jitters"=20 FWIW 


-----Original Message-----
From: Phil White = <philwhite9@aol.com>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft=20 <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Sun, 2 Dec 2007 9:21=20 pm
Subject: [FlyRotary] Porting tools?

For=20 those who have done porting on the cast iron end housings; what=20 bits/stones/burrs did you use to open up the intake ports? Does it = take=20 several types? Which for rough cuts; which for polishing up? I'm = ready to=20 work on my 20B, and want to do a mild street port on the intakes. I = have a=20 'dremel' hi-speed tool, but my bit selection is down to 1 or 2 left. = What to=20 buy?? 
Phil in IL RV-10 in=20 process 
 
-- 
Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ 
Archive and = UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.htm= l 
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No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free = Edition.
Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.11/1161 - = Release Date:=20 30/11/2007 12:12 PM
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