X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from outbound-mail.dca.untd.com ([64.136.47.15] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.1.12) with SMTP id 2373687 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sun, 07 Oct 2007 09:43:16 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=64.136.47.15; envelope-from=alwick@juno.com Received: from Penny (71-32-247-85.ptld.qwest.net [71.32.247.85]) by smtpout05.dca.untd.com with SMTP id AABDST2UDABFKRPA for (sender ); Sun, 7 Oct 2007 06:42:27 -0700 (PDT) Message-ID: <05A6950D58094CD59F3533B368953A80@Penny> From: "Al Wick" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" References: In-Reply-To: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Coolant Water Pressure Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2007 06:42:24 -0700 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0047_01C808AD.3812CDE0" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Windows Mail 6.0.6000.16480 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.0.6000.16480 X-ContentStamp: 30:15:291903995 X-MAIL-INFO:3dce7a7bcefee7d7477bfe23231a1e5f0b6fa38f02c79ef30e270f436eea8b4b9ee7eeeecf5a03bb073f2a7eeff77ebb135e13ce4ba7fbf76f8f9bfb4bba23baefde8f83ba13b7cb4fcb5bea935b4f1e6b4f17a3c79baf37135e9ed307df13be974afafa9adecadab3b73a6b0ac3b7171e1e02c38beea30b275b27e77fe3e3872e9b3f5a83ef07873307bb8ebf8f0e076f7afe1b2e6f0e8f6fd36f4b3eda0302e32b871f874e2efbbb7377fb5a9b2ada230aba3fcfab37bb773adbdecb6f135edbdecb4a5b5b3ab3b73a6ba377cfdbcbf30f5fc78eb78eebef0b6aae8b6ba37acece576ed70f87feee23 X-UNTD-OriginStamp: L941HVjjYzDhN3itp//mkH48qsnzJ57phrBqURMlB6N9/ftTZ2opCA== X-UNTD-Peer-Info: 10.171.42.35|smtpout05.dca.untd.com|smtpout05.dca.untd.com|alwick@juno.com This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0047_01C808AD.3812CDE0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Those pics worth a lot. One perspective I focus on is "large bubbles of = air flowing thru the block are 10 times more significant than anything = else." I think everyone agrees on that point.=20 Very likely you have air trapped in that upper radiator hose. That's one = of two local high spots. It's in high flow area, so in theory it's very = significant and going to affect cooling at high power settings. I like = the suggestion to fire up engine and feel hose in that area. It will be = cooler due to air.=20 Remember I suggested operating with 2 cups of air under cap? Definitely = NOT a good idea with design that has rad cap part of radiator. That = would be a disaster.=20 I also suggested having dynamic air bleed. It automatically removes air = from main flow and allows it to rise out of flow. You can't. You don't = have any higher components that are out of flow. I delayed responding because I don't know what I'd do in your situation. = You could cut top rad hose in half, install an aluminum tube at that = high point. Then install shrader valve at top of aluminum tube. That = would be one of the few ways to get that air out. But I don't think you = have cowl clearance for that.=20 Aha! I'd cut off beaded upper hose tube from rad. Lower it, weld new = tube at 45 degree angle so you are not trapping air. This would make = your rad cap the only high point. May not need to lower it, just weld at = 45 degree angle. Probably cost you $50 at local radiator shop. -al wick ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Bill Bradburry=20 To: Rotary motors in aircraft=20 Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2007 8:42 AM Subject: [FlyRotary] Coolant Water Pressure Ok, I recently upgraded my computer to Vista and had to download some = software to get my camera to talk to it.So here are some pictures of my = cooling install =20 Notice the bypass hole that you guys are talking about needing to = plug. This hole is in the housing which has been removed, so it is not = a player. The little rag you see on the oil line is a high tech way of checking = for a leak. (I have one!) =20 The red wire is the air temp sensor for the air after the radiator. = It is on top of the fan. Hoses are 1 =BC" The temperature sensor was moved from the left side = of the inlet to the top But is reading temperature as it enters the engine after the radiator. = (coolest place) =20 My overflow catch can. I will be replacing this with a pressurized on = as per Lynn's suggestions in a previous post in order to introduce=20 An air cushion above the liquid under pressure so it will not be = "locked". =20 I am planning to try and put suction on the cowling at the exit with a = leaf blower in addition to the prop blast and the small fan to see if an = increase in=20 Air flowing will help. I haven't checked the sides of the radiator = yet as I have been alone when running the engine.. All inputs appreciated. I already know some things should be changed, = so don't hold back with the suggestions. =20 Thanks, Bill B =20 -------------------------------------------------------------------------= ----- -- Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ Archive and UnSub: = http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html -Al Wick Cozy IV powered by Turbo Subaru 3.0R with variable valve lift and cam = timing.=20 Artificial intelligence in cockpit, N9032U 240+ hours from Portland, = Oregon Glass panel design, Subaru install, Prop construct, Risk assessment = info: http://www.maddyhome.com/canardpages/pages/alwick/index.html ------=_NextPart_000_0047_01C808AD.3812CDE0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Those pics worth a lot. One = perspective I=20 focus on is "large bubbles of air flowing thru the block are 10 times = more=20 significant than anything else." I think everyone agrees on that = point.=20
 
Very likely you have air trapped in = that upper=20 radiator hose. That's one of two local high spots. It's in high = flow area,=20 so in theory it's very significant and going to affect cooling at high = power=20 settings. I like the suggestion to fire up engine and feel hose in that = area. It=20 will be cooler due to air.
 
Remember I suggested operating with 2 = cups of air=20 under cap? Definitely NOT a good idea with design that has rad cap part = of=20 radiator. That would be a disaster.
 
I also suggested having dynamic air = bleed. It=20 automatically removes air from main flow and allows it to rise out of = flow. You=20 can't. You don't have any higher components that are out of = flow.
 
I delayed responding because I don't = know what I'd=20 do in your situation. You could cut top rad hose in half, install an = aluminum=20 tube at that high point. Then install shrader valve at top of aluminum = tube.=20 That would be one of the few ways to get that air out. But I don't think = you=20 have cowl clearance for that.
 
Aha! I'd cut off beaded upper hose tube = from rad.=20 Lower it, weld new tube at 45 degree angle so you are not trapping air. = This=20 would make your rad cap the only high point. May not need to lower it, = just weld=20 at 45 degree angle. Probably cost you $50 at local radiator=20 shop.
 
-al wick
 
 
 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Bill=20 Bradburry
Sent: Saturday, October 06, = 2007 8:42=20 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Coolant = Water=20 Pressure

Ok, I = recently=20 upgraded my computer to Vista and = had to=20 download some software to get my camera to talk to it=85So here are = some=20 pictures of my cooling install

 

Notice the = bypass=20 hole that you guys are talking about needing to plug.  This hole = is in=20 the housing which has been removed, so it is not a=20 player.

The little = rag you=20 see on the oil line is a high tech way of checking for a leak. (I have = one!)

 

The red = wire is the=20 air temp sensor for the air after the radiator.  It is on top of = the=20 fan.

Hoses are 1 = =BC=94 =20 The temperature sensor was moved from the left side of the inlet to = the=20 top

But is = reading=20 temperature as it enters the engine after the radiator. (coolest=20 place)

 

My overflow = catch=20 can.  I will be replacing this with a pressurized on as per = Lynn=92s = suggestions in a=20 previous post in order to introduce

An air = cushion above=20 the liquid under pressure so it will not be=20 =93locked=94.

 

I am = planning to try=20 and put suction on the cowling at the exit with a leaf blower in = addition to=20 the prop blast and the small fan to see if an increase in=20

Air flowing = will=20 help.  I haven=92t checked the sides of the radiator yet as I = have been=20 alone when running the engine=85.

All inputs=20 appreciated.  I already know some things should be changed, so = don=92t hold=20 back with the suggestions.

 

Thanks,

Bill=20 B

 

--
Homepage:  http://www.flyrotary.com/
Archive and=20 UnSub:  =20 = http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html
-Al Wick
Cozy IV powered by Turbo Subaru 3.0R with variable = valve lift=20 and cam timing.
Artificial intelligence in cockpit, N9032U 240+ = hours from=20 Portland, Oregon
Glass panel design, Subaru install, Prop construct, = Risk=20 assessment info:
htt= p://www.maddyhome.com/canardpages/pages/alwick/index.html
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