Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #39716
From: Al Wick <alwick@juno.com>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Coolant Water Pressure
Date: Fri, 5 Oct 2007 09:49:19 -0700
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
>at 22 psi the air would likely occupy even more space
 
The opposite is true. Air space reduces substantially when you increase pressure. Think of coolant as a solid, and air as a giant spring. When you add btu's to coolant, it immediately responds by expanding. This causes the air molecules to compress...a lot.
 
There are some fun exhibits at the science museum I volunteer at we use to demonstrate air/ water compression. An eye dropper inside a pop bottle. When you squeeze the pop bottle, the eye dropper plummets to the bottom. When you let go, dropper rises to surface. The pressure increase when you squeeze bottle causes air in dropper to compress(less air volume). This allows water to displace that air....dropper is now heavier and falls to bottom.
 
It's really ironic. You can design a system that seems to work fine. You fly with that for years with no failures( well I guess you could call the pinging and high temps a failure). But a small change can greatly reduce your risk. There's a lot of value to changing your air bleed design to one that dynamically removes air. No shrader valve, no repeated cooling cycles to remove air. By "dynamic" I mean that it automatically removes air from the system. No muss no fuss.
 
As you design system, just pretend their is air at the top of each component. Then find simple way to allow that air to move to higher component in system. So, my radiator is lowest point in system. If I place my radiator tube near the top of radiator, then all air naturally leaves rad and flows to engine. Next I look at highest coolant passage in engine. In my case I had to drill and tap a little 1/4 npt into the coolant manifold, then run tube from there up to highest point in system. Suddenly I've got a system that automatically removes all air immediately. Try as I can, I can no longer trap air anywhere. If I develop compression leak that pumps air into system, it has much less effect, because it rises out of the coolant flow. When I drain and refill, it all immediately and rapidly fills, I can get every drop back into the system.
 
Dynamic air bleed is a safety advantage, easy to accomplish. Each of these safety advantages adds up mathematically.
Likewise, contrary to popular theory, leaving two cups of air under cap increases safety. You can prove that to yourself with simple experiment I described earlier.
 
-al wick
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 9:07 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Coolant Water Pressure

 
Yes, at 22 psi the air would likely occupy even more space, but since I do my runup with the cap off or loose, there is no pressure during the process.  So while I have never measured it and it probably varies from one time to the next, there appears to be approx 1/3 of the top part of each core which has air on the initial fire up of the engine - after a complete drain and refill of the coolant system. 
 
I must admit that the first several times of draining and refilling coolant, not being as knowledgeable as I am now, I almost cooked the engine, because I assumed that when the header tank was full - the engine had all the coolant it could take.  Rapidly climbing coolant temps and pinging of hot engine cooling off soon make it clear that just because the header tank was full didn't mean a whole lot.  Of course, I noticed after each run up that the coolant level in the header tank would decrease permitting me to put more coolant in.  That finally made me realize what the problem was - would have been very nice to have this list around back then {:>)
 
 
 
After burping the system there is still small amount of air left, but the overflow tank set gradually removes the remaining air over a couple of flights.  Then the hydraulic "lock" phenomena starts with initial pressure of 21-22 psi immediately on engine start, dropping off  quickly to zero and then gradually climbing  back to 5 - 7 psi as the coolant heats  up.
 
 
But, other than having to "clear" the air out with a couple/three run ups to 5000 rpm, it works just fine and has since 97.  I occasionally toy with the idea of putting in simple small air bleed on the top of each - but, like I said, it works fine and other things to do {:>)
 
Sounds like your approach will avoid my burping problem.  However, Lynn has mentioned that even in the car installation it often takes burping the engine to get the air out.
 
Ed
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, October 05, 2007 11:12 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Problem? [FlyRotary] Re: Coolant Water Pressure

Hi Ed,
 
for sure I saw your installation before (numerous times...), but I do not recall your exact pluming.
Your description below sounds like inlet and outlet are facing down.
At 22psi it should even be more like 1/2 the radiator with air :)
Anyway, I assume waterflow is radical enough to strip the air out in 3 trials.
My system will have a bottom inlet and a top outlet. If it doesn't fit the outlet may exit the bottom of the tank but will have an internal standpipe - this way there is next to no space where air can get trapped, just a small bubble atop the standpipe, won't be big enough to cause any cooling detriment.
I still see BMW motorcycle oil-coolers mounted this way. Don't know the exact make-up today, but the earliest ones where simple single pass bottom feed bottom exit (cheapest solution and esthetically least disturbing), a big problem to purge. 1/4 was useless because of trapped air...
Furthermore, if the pump had a little leak or just a long time between runs would drain the oil fro mthe cooler and at start-up you had a fresh load of cold air inthe cooler! As it heats up the air-bubble expands and reduces cooler volume even more...
 
Best Regards,
 
TJ

snipped..
 In my case, if I do a complete drain and refill of the system, on the first run up the core's tanks  will be hot approx 2/3 of the way up and then they are much cooler - indicating that the remaining 1/3 of my core is filled with air.  It generally takes me 3 runups reaching 5000 rpm before I can touch  the core tanks and find them hot all the way from top to bottom.  So depending on your radiator set up that might be something you can quickly check.
 
 
snipped....

 
-Al Wick
Cozy IV powered by Turbo Subaru 3.0R with variable valve lift and cam timing.
Artificial intelligence in cockpit, N9032U 240+ hours from Portland, Oregon
Glass panel design, Subaru install, Prop construct, Risk assessment info:
http://www.maddyhome.com/canardpages/pages/alwick/index.html
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