I think that I would see air under the radiator cap if I had
a compression gas leak? I never see any air.
To check a piston engine for head gasket leaks, you would put
the cylinder at TDC and pressurize the cylinder to about 150 lbs with
compressed air and check the radiator for air bubbles…How do you check a
rotary?
I will check the pressure sender against a mechanical
gage.
There is obviously a heating problem, but I think the pressure
is higher than it should be until just ready to boil. I shut the engine
off at 210*, and at 22+ lbs, the boiling point should be well above 250*??
Thanks for the suggestions of where to look, guys…
Bill B
From: Rotary
motors in aircraft [mailto: flyrotary@lancaironline.net]
On Behalf Of Al p Wick
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2007
7:49 PM
To: Rotary
motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Coolant
Water Pressure
Your
coolant reservoir should be above engine.
1) If it
is, remove two cups of air from the reservoir. Then repeat your test.
2) If
you now see pressure rise above 22 psi within 5 minutes of cold start, you clearly
have compression gases leaking into cooling system or bad gage.
3) Air in
the block is 10 times more significant than any other cooling factor. Make darn
sure you don't have any. It causes local boiling, high temps, strange behavior.
Operating
with two cups of air under cap is an important safety and diagnosis advantage.
Everyone should do it. With that two cups, you only see 22 psi if you have a
genuine problem. You only see 0 psi if you have genuine problem. The pressure
is then a very fast and reliable indicator of system integrity. So two cups of
air has no negative effect on system efficiency, just a substantial improvement
in safety. Only time it could be a negative would be if your reservoir was way
too small, way too low, or flowed way too much coolant.
Since you
describe high temps AND pressure, I suspect you have temperature problem.
I
deliberately overheated my engine many times so that I was intimate with
pressure and temperature patterns. Then tested various concepts. Don't
recommend you do the same.
I
just recently got my Renesis started again after finishing my cowl. I seem
to be getting very high coolant pressures. I can only run the engine
about 10-15 minutes before hitting the redline at 210*. My water pressure
is at 27 Lbs at that time. I only have a 22 Lb radiator cap, so I assume
that I am blowing into the recovery tank, but I have not confirmed that.
My oil temp has never exceeded about 165*. It might have gone higher if I
could have run longer???
This
whole water pressure thing has me a little baffled. Since this is a
closed system and the only way pressure can build is due to the expansion of
the coolant after heating???, I am confused by some comments that have been
made from time to time. I remember something that Tracy said about his pressure would build for
a time, then go to zero. It seems to me that the pressure should
correlate to the temp pretty closely since it is a closed system??
Can
someone enlighten me a little on the science of this pressure? It seems
to me that there could be some pressure build up on the positive side of the
pump, but it would go negative on the suction side, so the net effect of the
pump should be close to zero??
Also,
my Renesis had only 1800 miles on it when I bought it, so I did not have to
tear it down. As a result, I am somewhat in the dark as to how the water
flows through the system. Could someone help me with that? I had to
remove the thermostat tower for height clearance , so I made an adapter plate
that takes water from the top outlet of the pump and sends it to the radiator
(double pass), then from the radiator, it returns to the lower inlet of the
pump.
Thanks,
Bill
B
-al wick
Cozy IV powered by Turbo Subaru 3.0R with variable valve lift and cam timing.
Artificial intelligence in cockpit, N9032U 240+ hours from Portland, Oregon
Glass panel design, Subaru install, Prop construct, Risk assessment info:
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