Hi Chris,
What type dsub connectors are you using? IMO
the milled barrel type pins are better than stamped pins or solder
connectors. If you are using soldered connectors or the stamped pin, you
may want to considered the milled pins. The best price I have found for
these type connectors is from steinair.com. in bags of 100, they are $0.25
a piece. The crimpier is $31.00
A dedicated crimpier must be used to properly
terminate. They are a bit more money than the other options, but IMO they
are more reliable.
The connector sockets can also be bought from
Steinair or mouser.com.
Joe
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2007 12:17 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] EM2/EC2
question/update/vent/etc
> This may be more of a vent than a real question. However, if
anyone has > insight, I am willing to listen. Also, this is NOT a
complaint about the > RWS products. This IS an admission to my
continuing developing skills (or > lack there of) of wire systems and
electrical troubleshooting. Tracy has > always been helpful and
willing to provide even basic information. I post > here first to
get the group wisdom and to try to spare Tracy the time as I > am sure
that following his travels, he is currently overwhelmed with work > and
emails....even though he and Laura have been great to respond to >
previous and current concerns previous to this one. Gee, he is forgoing
OSH > where his presence can provide for the general good of the rotary
community. > Even though it is NOT prevalent on this list, sometimes
expressing trouble > shooting and/or proof of concept
questions/concepts/experiences etc. some > take the opportunity to go
"see, that doesn't work" or makes the yet > uninitiated nervous without
realizing that the ability to share online > OPENLY is one of the best
safety devices we've got. > > Anyway, My engine is/was running much
better now that I have plugged some > intake leaks. The auto tune
seems to be playing nice. However, following a > short engine run
two days ago, I went to inspect the engine (FWB in my Velo) > and when I
returned to the cabin, the EM2 was flickering.....then it seemed > to set
itself in the calibration mode (and the bottom row of reading are >
flickering and fading periodically). I would try to clear it by
hitting > abort and it would flash the main screen for about a second and
then return > to the calibration mode, showing "coolant pressure".
Within the calibration > mode, the values/modes will change when I press
the control buttons as they > should, however, when I try to get it to the
main screen, it goes back to > the calibration mode. My first thought was
a bad/sticking switch/es. So I > replaced ALL four switches to no
avail, checked the grounds and continuity > of the wires. No
joy. Seems too, the being in this mode "calibrated" my > coolant
temperature to zero (doh). > > When I started the engine (of course
one of the easiest starts to date) in > this mode, the engine was surging
in a rhythmic pattern, even though pretty > smoothly. > > I
am a thinkin' that tonight I will re-terminated all the d-sub pins. >
> Oh well, back to patrol....and then to the hangar (following a brief
detour, > hopefully brief, to the big Houston dog show to support Jana and
the dogs > she is showing. This is her big hobby and she is usually
good about > supporting the plane) > > Thanks. Thoughts
are greatly appreciated. > > All the best, > >
Chris > > Christopher Barber > Attorney and Counselor at
Law > 5110 Bissonnet, No 418 > Bellaire, Texas 77401 >
> Serving the Needs of Senior Texans > > 281-464-LAWS
(5297) > 281-754-4168 Fax > www.TexasAttorney.net > >
> -- > Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ >
Archive and UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html >
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