Do the calculations on how many pounds of pressure are trying to force the engine apart during combustion and I think you'll feel better about the small loads from the prop.

Finn

Thomas y Reina Jakits wrote:

Hi all,
 Sandwich plate may work (even well), BUT it is not the cleanest solution, more likely the simplest.
This engine was never built to be a load carrying member of the drive train (like some motorcycle or racing engines....).
I don't even like the Mistral Engines solution ( and they probably did a LOT of homework on this) - the backplate, altough the loadpath is easier - straight through the engineblock, no turning forces 90º into the sandwichplate and back 90º into the framemount.
Personally I would keep any proploads (push/pull/torque) off the engine.
A triangulated frame that attaches at the PSRU would be better - Prop-Trans-Mount-Frame -
The engine hangs on the other side and provides the power, nothing else.
As long as you run direct-drive the torque will never be more than the engine produces, but as soon as you ad rpm-reduction you introduce more torque coming back into the engine-housing....
 Am I wrong somewhere...??
 Thomas J.

    ----- Original Message -----
    *From:* George Lendich <mailto:lendich@optusnet.com.au>
    *To:* Rotary motors in aircraft <mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
    *Sent:* Saturday, February 24, 2007 4:48 PM
    *Subject:* [FlyRotary] Re: Primary regulator, and motor mount plate



        Greetings,
         The Dominator gyro is on order, to arrive around the first
        part of April (I hope).  The gear drive is still on order from
        Autoflight, and hopefully, will be shipping soon.  All I can
        do in the mean time is get the engine as ready as possible,
        which mostly means making a new engine mount plate of some type. Question one- If I were to make a sandwiched plate, similar to
        what CCI does (did ?) with their mounts, how thick would it
        need to be for a single rotor?  The CCI plate was 1/2" thick
        for the two rotor, and I made my first single rotor mount that
        thick as well.  Since I'd like to reduce some weight, I'm
        wondering what I can cut this down to.  I'm guessing 3/8" at
        least, and maybe 1/4".   Any suggestions?
         Second question, how much oil bypasses the primary regulator
        (in the front cover) under normal operation?  Does any bypass
        at all?  I know it's there primarily to prevent overpressure
        of the oil cooler in case the lines get blocked, but I wonder
        if it's actually needed for normal operation.  In other words,
        can I plug up the primary regulator, and be OK as long
        as nothing in the oil lines gets plugged up?  Thanks,
        Rusty (waiting for Ed to try his favorite brazing rods on the
        board)
         Rusty,
        I like the mount plate for simplicity - however it does move,
        and move enough to get leaks. Since this is a perceived
        problem with the 2 rotor, I would leave it 1/2" for the one
        rotor, with the required internal holes.
        Just my opinion Matey!
        George ( down under)

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