In a message dated 2/8/2007 12:48:00 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
finn.lassen@verizon.net writes:
Lynn,
I'm afraid you'll have to eat this one. You use steel, iron or "Mu" metal to
shield from magnetic fields.
I did two experiments this morning in my minus 3 degrees shop. First I
placed a ring magnet from the magnetron of a microwave oven tight against a 2'
by 2' by 1/16" 2024-T3 sheet. I placed 40 10-32 screws against the plate and
adjacent to the magnet and rotated the plate into the vertical plane. All but
three screws stayed on the plate.
I next repeated the experiment with a 2' by 2' by 1/16" sheet of 4130
steel. All but 4 screws fell off. In addition, the whole plate became magnetic
to the extent that screws were attracted to it but not enough to support their
weight.
I placed a piece of hard board about 1/8" thick to see if a distance would
reduce the power of the magnet. I can pick up my tool box with that spacer in
between.
In my reading last night, I see that the iron or steel shielding
should have an air gap between the source and the shielding. If the single layer
does not contain the flux field, a second or third layer with air gaps between
can be added. The iron shielding can become saturated by a strong flux field and
need the additional layer of material.
The specialty materials used for this must be expensive, are thin
foils, and are applied to the device that needs protection rather than the
source of the flux field in most cases. In newer buildings with low ceilings and
much overhead wiring above the equipment being used, can cause problems from
radiating flux fields. So some instrumentation must be protected.
My experiments gathered only vestigial data, Because, 4130 has a hint of
chrome in it.
2024-T3 has a hint of iron in it. The magnet I used has a nearly
unbelievably powerful flux field.
On examining my friends 1960 Bonanza, I note that the battery cable is not
shielded. The glare shield is an upholstered aluminum sheet. The total
wiring package is white with microscopic numbers printed on them. Both waxed
string and real Tye Wraps with the metal locking tabs are used to bundle
every kind of wire bundle. Many changes have been done over the years to upgrade
navaids and modern radios and everything is in duplicate.
The compass is original, and mounted high on the top of the windshield
frame, about 16" above the glare shield. It seems to function perfectly in the
absence of any kind of shielding anywhere in the panel. It is mounded with brass
screws, and there is no iron based material in the area of the
compass.
I deduce from this that unless your battery cable encircles the compass, it
is likely to work just fine.
My assertions that aluminum shields a (standing) flux field are baseless.
As John Cleese would say: I apologize unreservedly.
Lynn E. Hanover