In a message dated 10/31/2006 8:43:54 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
ALVentures@cox.net writes:
I talked to a guy a
Mazdatrix who sells the Idemitsu, and one of his comments was that they’ve had
good luck with the Castrol. Maybe I’ll stick with it and change more
often; I can change it about 5 times for the cost of one change with the
Idemitsu. Besides; I always have some around because I’ve used it all my
other vehicles for years with exceptionally good results.
Al
The Jap oil is probably every bit as good as they claim it is.
As far as oil goes, the bearings are huge compared to the loads
involved. That is one reason that you can overheat the oil repeatedly and get
away with it. I have lost 4 rotor bearings since 1980. In the first case
(Valvolene 40 weight racing) the radiator got a chunk of tack through it
and we lost all of the coolant. The engine finished the race (it
happened close to the end) and then could not be shut off. With the battery
disconnected and the ignition switch off I had the driver select 4th gear and
release the clutch while holding the brakes. The engine stopped, never to turn
over again. The distributors and front cover were fine. The rest was scrap
metal.
Oil brand not a factor.
Not to long ago, maybe 7 years, we bought two real racing engines from the
top builder for our kind of racing. One complete for $14,000.00 and an identical
short engine for $7,000.00.
I installed the complete engine and went to Mid Ohio. Lost the front rotor
bearing housing and front iron (broke the bridge) in the first practice session
at about 7,000 RPM, right in front of me. Not even on the power, just warming it
up. The following week at Gingerman we lost the backup engine in the first
qualifying session. Lost the rear rotor, housing, and rear iron (broke the
bridge).
Mazda had changed suppliers for bearings and not said anything about it.
The new bearings were junk. Thank you very much Mazda. Both were on Redline 40
weight racing oil. Not overheated.
Oil brand not a factor.
Castrol invented multi weight oil. Just fine in the crank case. A high
quality 2 cycle oil for the OPM would be better. Plus you can run longer between
changes because it is a street oil with the correct additives for acid
control.
The heavy weight oil is right by the door there. The medium weight oil is
behind the counter.
The light weight oil is beside the Franklin stove.
Lynn E. Hanover