X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from imo-d03.mx.aol.com ([205.188.157.35] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.1.1) with ESMTP id 1517851 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Tue, 31 Oct 2006 14:47:34 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.188.157.35; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from Lehanover@aol.com by imo-d03.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38_r7.6.) id q.461.7ddeaa9 (30737) for ; Tue, 31 Oct 2006 14:47:04 -0500 (EST) From: Lehanover@aol.com Message-ID: <461.7ddeaa9.32790237@aol.com> Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2006 14:47:03 EST Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Oils To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="-----------------------------1162324023" X-Mailer: 9.0 Security Edition for Windows sub 5331 X-Spam-Flag: NO -------------------------------1162324023 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Language: en =20 In a message dated 10/31/2006 1:03:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, =20 ALVentures@cox.net writes: =20 I=E2=80=99ve been running Castrol 20-50 in my 20B to this point (about 25 h= ours). =20 Now that it is about =E2=80=98broken in=E2=80=99, I=E2=80=99m considering c= hanging to synthetic. =20 Everyone has their favorite oil, but I=E2=80=99m thinking the Idemitsu raci= ng oil; =E2=80=9C specifically engineered to meet the unique requirements of a rotary engine= =E2=80=9D.=20 _http://www.idemitsu-usa.com/page_211.htm_=20 (http://www.idemitsu-usa.com/page_211.htm) , would make sense. =20 It comes in 10-30 and 20-50. Considering typical operation at high power,=20 about 5000 rpm, and at temps of 180 -210; I=E2=80=99m thinking stay with 20= -50.=20 Comments?=20 Al If you run the stock OMP and feed crank case oil as the lubricant I would =20 avoid both racing oils and multi grade oils. The long chain polymers of the=20= =20 multi grade tend to gum and don't burn well. The racing oils are also very =20 stable at high temps and don't burn well, plus less detergent action would=20= require=20 more frequent oil changes and much greater expense. =20 The small number in a multi grade is the actual weight of the base oil. The=20= =20 big number is the weight it "acts" like at operating temperature. =20 The 100% duty cycle is not hard at all on oil. Not as bad as street driving=20= =20 with no water boil off. Like buying a high mileage car with only highway mil= es=20 on it. =20 If you premix the top oil or use Mr. Sohn's wonderful OMP adaptor to feed i= n=20 a clean burning 2 cycle top oil, you can then use an automotive straight=20 weight synthetic in the crankcase.=20 The automotive oil will have detergents and anti acid additives generally =20 not used in racing oils.=20 =20 The weight number in the straight weight is the weight of all of the oil in=20= =20 the bottle all of the time. =20 When you shut down and the engine cools, the gas volume change pulls in som= e=20 humid air and then condenses the water out of it to manufacture sulfuric =20 acid from the sulfer compounds in the crankcase (blow by) gasses. I run the=20= =20 synthetic racing oil for two weekends because I'm cheap, but its 8 quarts to= the =20 recycler and real pricy. =20 =20 They may have developed a way to do the viscosity increase without polymers=20= =20 but I doubt it. And they do have automotive style oils if you just want to use that brand. =20 I use straight 30 weight Redline racing synthetic in the crankcase =20 (drysump). And Redline 2 cycle synthetic in a premix. I have not installed a= new main=20 or rotor bearing in years. Side seals will go through two rebuilds. The ape= x=20 seals (soft carbon) show little wear. The irons have never been resurfaced=20 and look new. =20 I have also used straight 40 weight Valvoline racing oil with exactly the =20 same result. This could suggest that oil choice is not critical so long as o= il =20 changes are kept up. The Valvoline was used with the stock OMP and carbon =20 buildup on the rotors was pronounced. (An RX-2 in the IMSA RS series). So th= ere =20 is a distinct advantage in using 2 cycle oil as a top oil.=20 =20 Lynn E. Hanover =20 =20 =20 -------------------------------1162324023 Content-Type: text/html; charset="UTF-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Language: en
In a message dated 10/31/2006 1:03:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,=20 ALVentures@cox.net writes:
<= FONT=20 style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size= =3D2>

I=E2=80=99ve been running=20= Castrol 20-50=20 in my 20B to this point (about 25 hours).  Now that it is about =E2= =80=98broken=20 in=E2=80=99, I=E2=80=99m considering changing to synthetic.  Everyone= has their favorite=20 oil, but I=E2=80=99m thinking the Idemitsu racing oil; =E2=80=9Cspecifically=20 engineered to meet the unique requirements of a rotary=20 engine=E2=80=9D. http://www.idemitsu-usa.= com/page_211.htm,=20 would make sense.

 

It comes in 10-30 and=20 20-50.  Considering typical operation at high power, about 5000 rpm,=20= and=20 at temps of 180 -210; I=E2=80=99m thinking stay with 20-50.<= /P>

 

Comments?

 

Al

=
If you run the stock OMP and feed crank case oil as the lubricant I wou= ld=20 avoid both racing oils and multi grade oils. The long chain polymers of= the=20 multi grade tend to gum and don't burn well. The racing oils are also very=20 stable at high temps and don't burn well, plus less detergent action=20 would require more frequent oil changes and much greater expense.
 
The small number in a multi grade is the actual weight of the base oil.= The=20 big number is the weight it "acts"  like at operating temperature.
 
The 100% duty cycle is not hard at all on oil. Not as bad as street dri= ving=20 with no water boil off. Like buying a high mileage car with only highway mil= es=20 on it.
 
If you premix the top oil or use Mr. Sohn's wonderful OMP adaptor=20 to feed in a clean burning 2 cycle top oil, you can then use an=20 automotive straight weight synthetic in the crankcase.
The automotive oil will have detergents and anti acid additives general= ly=20 not used in racing oils.
 
The weight number in the straight weight is the weight of all of the oi= l in=20 the bottle all of the time.
 
When you shut down and the engine cools, the gas volume change pulls in= =20 some humid air and then condenses the water out of it to manufacture sulfuri= c=20 acid from the sulfer compounds in the crankcase (blow by) gasses. I run the=20 synthetic racing oil for two weekends because I'm cheap, but its 8 quarts to= the=20 recycler and real pricy.  
 
They may have developed a way to do the viscosity increase without poly= mers=20 but I doubt it.
And they do have automotive style oils if you just want to use that=20 brand.
 
I use straight 30 weight Redline racing synthetic in the crankcase=20 (drysump). And Redline 2 cycle synthetic in a premix. I have not installed a= new=20 main or rotor bearing in years. Side seals will go through two rebuilds= .=20 The apex seals (soft carbon) show little wear. The irons have never been=20 resurfaced and look new.
 
I have also used straight 40 weight Valvoline racing oil with exactly t= he=20 same result. This could suggest that oil choice is not critical so long as o= il=20 changes are kept up. The Valvoline was used with the stock OMP and carbon=20 buildup on the rotors was pronounced. (An RX-2 in the IMSA RS series). So th= ere=20 is a distinct advantage in using 2 cycle oil as a top oil.
 
Lynn E. Hanover  
 
 
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