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I have laid out a couple of foundations with water a level.
User a two liter soda bottle on one end with an air vent.
Siphon the tube full.
Mark the water level in the soda bottle.
Mark the other end of the tube while holding it up to the soda bottle
To be level, the water level has to be at the mark on the tube
You can check your system by taking the end back to the bottle.
Blake
On 8/28/06, Heidi Johnson <hjjohnson@sasktel.net> wrote:
Finn, did you use dish soap or some type of 'water wetter' to kill the surface tension of the water? I've also used water levels and found that using a larger pvc hose on the ends than is used on the center worker pretty well. I think it has to do w/ the mass of the water in the larger hose easily overcomes and friction in the smaller middle hose. Also the smaller hose is usually cheaper. Oh.. and it then reacts slower so it doesn't occilate back and forth for-forever.. [kind of a dampening effect forcing all that water through the smaller hose].
Jarrett
----- Original Message -----
From: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
Date: Monday, August 28, 2006 10:59 am
Subject: [FlyRotary] OT: Gardenhose as level
> Only vaugely rotary related...
>
> I'm driving myself nuts trying to build this thing level to within
> 1/8
> to 1/4" !
>
> I'm using a gardenhose, terminating in clear PVC tubing at each
> end, to
> get reference points at the four corners.
>
> The thing is that the level varies 1/2" or more over hours. One
> end will
> be up, 1/2" over where it was an hour ago and the other end down.
> Then
> it changes, etc. How can a guy get a reliable reading this way?
>
> Is the friction in the hose too big to reliably use this as a level?
>
> Do I need to terminate each end in funnels to get bigger ambient
> pressure?
> Finn
> (frustrated)
>
>
>
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Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/
Archive and UnSub: http://mail.lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/
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Blake C. Lewis
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