Jim,
I live in Austin, Tx.
I haven’t flown yet, so take this FWIW. It is my understanding that
the best heat transfer is with 100% water. You would need to add a
corrosion inhibitor, and switch back to EG in the winter. But it could
surely help during the summer months. I added a cowl flap for additional
ground cooling on my Lancair. Hopefully, that will give me the extra
cooling capacity necessary for ground cooling in the Texas summer months. Two other things
you could try is to add a spray bar system and/or an electric fan.
Or, as a last resort you could learn to taxi
faster.
Mark S.
· A/C: Lancair ES
Engine/Model/Year: N/A
20B
· Source Condition: J-spec, Rebuilt myself
· Modifications: Ported
intakes, 3mm apex seals, TES o-rings, removed springs & check balls in
crank, custom oil pan.
· Intake: Custom 6
inlet intake w/Holly 100mm throttle body
· Exhaust: 3 into 1
header w/Spiral Flow “auger” muffler
· Engine Control: RWS
EC-2, 6 LS1 coils
· Fuel Control: 6 Mazda
550cc Injectors, pri. in block & sec in manifold
· Fuel Pumps: RWS
· Cooling System: single
custom radiator, under engine, 50/50 glycol\water mix.
· Oil System: Fluidyne
oil cooler
· Installation: conventional,
stock Lancair mount w/custom MM adapters
· PSRU/Re-Drive: RWS
RD2-C w/custom mounting plate (relocated starter to 9 o’clock position)
· Prop: M/T 76” electric,
3-blade, constant-speed
· Power: 280HP?
From: Rotary motors in aircraft
[mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On
Behalf Of James Maher
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 12:28
PM
To: Rotary
motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Temperature
control
· Engine/Model/Year: 13B
6 port NA mixed
· Source Condition: David
Atkins Rebuilt for Aviation Application
· Modifications: Ported
intakes and cooling for 180HP
· Intake: Atkins short
manifold w/TWM 48mm Throttle body
· Exhaust: 321 SS
tangential muffler
· Engine Control: RWS
EC2
· Fuel Control: 4 Mazda
460cc Injectors, pri. in block & sec in manifold
· Cooling System: 2
– 9”x13”GM evaporator cores with 0.75” auto hose, stock
water pump with 180F deg.-thermostat, 50/50 glycol\water mix.
· Oil System: stock
1986 oil cooler
· Installation: conventional
– self built mount
· PSRU/Re-Drive: Ross
2.85:1
· Prop: IVO Magnum
74" 45-105”pitch in-flight adjustable
On the ground, cooling stabilizes at 180-190F deg and oil is usually 10
degrees below the cooling with an OAT of 65-70F deg.
When running with higher OAT (75-85F deg) after about 0.5 hours of
moderate taxi runs (up to 4300RPM) the cooling temps reach 212Fdeg with the oil
about 200F deg.
Can something be done to get lower operating temperatures without
redesigning the system?
Would switching to pure water help and if so by how much?
Would removing the thermostat help and if so by how much?
How much change should I expect if I were to do both?
You guys down south should have a good idea of how best to enhance
cooling.
What are your suggestions?