I saw Lynn's recent thing about troubleshooting using a spark plug with
.010 gap. Then this exchange about there being adjustable gap plugs that
can be used in addition to the "stock" non-adjustable plugs.
I can't remember the reason for using the "test spark plug gapped at
.010". Lynn, would you cover that again?
. . . I'm familiar with the fairly well know characteristic that the
"spark" has more difficulty jumping the gap as the gap increases in size, and,
as the compression increases.
. . . Thus, I associate the large .060 gap in my 1995 Ford Escort with a
"high energy" (high voltage) coil pack electronic ignition system, as contrasted
with my former 1954 Ford 6 cylinder with 7 to 1 or so compression ratio and old
30,000 volt (maybe) cylindrical coil and distributor system, then stock on most
cars.
. . . . . A friend had a 1956 Chevy V8 "power pack" that had a miss:
We took my 6 known good plugs from my Ford and put in his 8.5 to 1 compression
ratio V8 for trouble shooting (after grounding indivual plugs and not
seeing much change in miss, so assumed the plugs were bad), so put my 6 "good"
spark plugs, which weren't missing, into his V8 - still missed, so we mentally
"eliminated" spark plugs as the culprit and started pulling the heads to look
for bad valves. A cooler, older head interrupted our course of action - we
ended up by simply buying 8 new stock plugs for the V8 and the miss went away -
my "known good" spark plugs that fired at 7:1 compression simply wouldn't fire
in his 8.5:1 engine.
So, how does all this relate to a "process of elimination" troubleshooting
of the fellow who recently had the severe miss in his rotary and discussion of
ignition systems and bad coils?
. . . I can see that a .010 gap plug ought to fire at about any
compression and even with a crummy/degraded ignition system
(bad/weak/cracked/arcing-through-cracks coil block).
. . . . . If the coils are degraded, why would we want to get them
to fire with the smaller gap in plugs?
Speaking of coil packs, I replaced a bad (cracked and arcing) coil block on
the 1993 Escort which fixed the miss. I later found on the internet an
article about looking at the coils with engine idling AT NIGHT IN THE DARK and
you could see sparks jumping out of the coil block onto the metal mount,
etc. The article said such coils could be "repaired" by
coating/pototing them with epoxy or some such stuff. That works - when my
1995 Escort developed the same problem, I repaired it rather than replacing
it.
. . . So, I suggest as one of several trouble shooting steps to "visually
inspect the igniter coils in the dark to look for visible arcing" - "then repair
or replace as necessary".
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 6:17 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Another case of
heat-soaked coils?
The
plugs I'm using BUR7EQ/BUR9EQ don't allow for gap
adjustment.
John
Just for trouble shooting there are a world of cold plugs that will work
just fine and do have adjustable gaps. There total loss of engine power
seems more fuel related, like boiling fuel in a pump or similar. Similar
to a loss of prime without a return bleed port. We boiled fuel in the
regulator a few times, and that had a similar outcome.
Lynn E. Hanover
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