X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from imo-d05.mx.aol.com ([205.188.157.37] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.0.9) with ESMTP id 1069011 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Fri, 14 Apr 2006 21:31:16 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.188.157.37; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from Lehanover@aol.com by imo-d05.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38_r7.5.) id q.2cf.6e64b49 (3924) for ; Fri, 14 Apr 2006 21:30:28 -0400 (EDT) From: Lehanover@aol.com Message-ID: <2cf.6e64b49.3171a6b4@aol.com> Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 21:30:28 EDT Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Oil tank To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="-----------------------------1145064628" X-Mailer: 9.0 Security Edition for Windows sub 5301 X-Spam-Flag: NO -------------------------------1145064628 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 4/14/2006 4:55:07 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, eanderson@carolina.rr.com writes: From: _chris mallory_ (mailto:candtmallory@cox.net) To: _Rotary motors in aircraft_ (mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net) Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 9:48 AM Subject: [FlyRotary] Oil tank My current problem: I don't want to take up the space below the engine with the larger 13b oil pan. I was thinking of doing something like Ed has. I can use the renesis pan as a collector or make a blank out of aluminum, pipe the oil to a tank sitting on the side of the engine, then plumb it back into the pump. Ed, how does your system get the oil to the tank? How big is the tank? How did you connect back to the pick-up? As always, any comments and constructive criticism are welcome. Chris So long as the oil level at the top of whatever tank system you build is the same as in the stock pan, oil pump performance would be unaffected from the suction lift point of view. Of course the longer the pickup the more drag and the lower the oil pressure. A tall narrow shape is best and allows for more foam removal, and allows better oil control in unusual attitudes. Pickup still at the very bottom (one diameter from the bottom) of the container and shaped like a trumpet bell. The pickup tube diameter could be slightly bigger than stock, right up to the block. The oil sump tank need not be rigid to the pan. So long as the flex hose for drain oil and pickup hose are good for the temps and compatible with oil. A screen over the drain opening into the sump if you must, but not over the end of the pickup tube. Very bad for flow. A piece of 4" exhaust pipe tubing might be about right for the sump. If you want lighter, a section of an aluminum fire extinguisher bottle. The sump need not be directly below the engine if room is lacking. If the sump were offset to the side it might include the dipstick tube as well as the temp sender and drain plug/valve. This might also support the change to a real oil pump at a later time. On my Pport engine I have a shallow flat oil pan with a separator plate against the engine. A Pontiac pickup tube and vortex tray passes through the front of the pan and ends in a dash AN 16 male fitting. A dash 16 line runs to the top of the engine to the alternator location where it supplies oil to a Weaver Brothers dry sump pressure section. Works real well. Lynn E. Hanover -------------------------------1145064628 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

In a message dated 4/14/2006 4:55:07 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,=20 eanderson@carolina.rr.com writes:

<= FONT=20 style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size= =3D2> From= :=20 chris=20 mallory

To: Rotary motors in aircraft=20=

Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 9:48=20 AM

Subject: [FlyRotary] Oil tank

My current problem: I don't want to= take up=20 the space below the engine with the larger 13b oil pan. I was thinki= ng=20 of doing something like Ed has. I can use the renesis pan as a colle= ctor=20 or make a blank out of aluminum, pipe the oil to a tank sitting on the sid= e of=20 the engine, then plumb it back into the pump.

Ed, how does your system get the oil to t= he=20 tank? How big is the tank? How did you connect back to the=20 pick-up?

As always, any comments and constructive=20 criticism are welcome.

Chris

So long as the oil level at the top of whatever tank system you build i= s=20 the same as in the stock pan, oil pump performance would be unaffected from=20= the=20 suction lift point of view.

Of course the longer the pickup the more drag and the lower the oil=20 pressure. A tall narrow shape is best and allows for more foam removal, and=20 allows better oil control in unusual attitudes. Pickup still at the very bot= tom=20 (one diameter from the bottom) of the container and shaped like a trumpet be= ll.=20

The pickup tube diameter could be slightly bigger than stock, right up=20= to=20 the block.

The oil sump tank need not be rigid to the pan. So long as the flex hos= e=20 for drain oil and pickup hose are good for the temps and compatible with oil= . A=20 screen over the drain opening into the sump if you must, but not over the en= d of=20 the pickup tube. Very bad for flow.

A piece of 4" exhaust pipe tubing might be about right for the sump. If= you=20 want lighter, a section of an aluminum fire extinguisher bottle. The sump ne= ed=20 not be directly below the engine if room is lacking. If the sump were offset= to=20 the side it might include the dipstick tube as well as the temp sender and d= rain=20 plug/valve. This might also support the change to a real oil pump at a later= =20 time.

On my Pport engine I have a shallow flat oil pan with a separator plate= =20 against the engine. A Pontiac pickup tube and vortex tray passes through the= =20 front of the pan and ends in a dash AN 16 male fitting. A dash 16 line runs=20= to=20 the top of the engine to the alternator location where it supplies oil to a=20 Weaver Brothers dry sump pressure section. Works real well.

Lynn E. Hanover

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