Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #31162
From: rijakits <rijakits@cwpanama.net>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Oil tank
Date: Fri, 14 Apr 2006 17:34:03 -0500
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Tracy,
 
you got a pic of your oilpan, air separator plate?
 
TJ
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 5:11 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Oil tank

Tracy,
 
What do you think?  Is the extra 1/2 inch from the plate enough?  Can I get away with just using the stock pan?  Or do I need to fab the external oil sump?
 
Chris
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 5:01 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Oil tank

Yep, but that is mostly guesswork.   Mazda did have a recall for foaming problems (oil level alarm) but don't know what they did to fix it.  Might have been just a reflash of the ECU to Ignore low oil pressure : )  Or maybe a change to the oil low sense switch.  Foaming causes an oil pressure drop of around 10 psi when it happens.
Mazda did not change the pan.  I used a 2nd gen pan and an air separator plate on my Renesis.
Tracy
Ed,
 
Tracy didn't think the Renesis pan was deep enough.  It might have been total quantity, but I think it was more the sloshing and foam.  A deeper pan would eliminate this problem.
 
Tracy, if this isn't right, please set me straight.
 
Thanks for the answers.  Now I can start fabricating.
 
Chris
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 3:55 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Oil tank

Just a question, Chris - why modify the Renesis oil Pan?  Do you feel you need additional oil?
 
Yes, from the oil pickup hole in the block.  I put a gasket on the engine side of the plate and then a tube through the plate into the pickup hole.  I made a fitting that used the two oil pickup bolt holes and with a big drill bit make the underside of the hole through the fitting a bit convex.  I put the fitting over the tube,  an "O" ring around the tube, stick the tube through the hole in the plate and then tighten the two bolts forcing the "O" ring against the tube and plate giving me an air tight seal.  I use a new "O" ring anytime I loosen the fitting.  I do the same for the tube end entering the sump.  If you have even a slight air leak, the pump won't producing sufficient suction to lift the oil, so careful going is called for in fabricating this.
 
Ed
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 4:03 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Oil tank

Thanks Ed,
 
This is all very helpful!  I'm looked at leaving the Renesis oil pan installed.  Tapping a hole in the bottom to let oil flow to the sump.  I'll mount the sump at the side of the engine, just below the level of the oil pan.  Then I'll put the pickup from the top, turn in 90 into the side of the oil pan, using the oil level indicator hole. 
Did you run one pickup line from the bottom of the engine, through the plate into the top of the sump, and then seal up the hole where it went through the plate?  How did you set that part up?
 
Thanks,
 
Chris
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 10:58 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Oil tank

Hi Chris,
 
Rotary "hang out" is generally on Row 19 on the flight line with cowls-off until 1330 then to the rotary engine tent for rest of afternoon.
 
My "Plugs Up" installation has the oil drain to the bottom side of the block.  The oil pan area is covered with a 3/16" aluminum plate.  Then the oil drains through holes (six I believe) in the bottom of the plate and through  a 2"x1" rectangular tube (running length of plate).  The rectangular tube is used to "stand-off" the "Sump" from the plate so I can access the pan bolts in that area (otherwise the sump would be flat up against the plate cover the oil pan holes in that area.  The oil drains through the six holes and into the sump which is a 4x4" rectangular tube with plates welded on both ends and various fittings and holes (such as the fill hole and dip still hole).
 
I then extended the oil pickup tube through the side of the plate and into the top of the 4x4 sump.  The pickup actually goes through a removal plate on the top of the sump, so I have access to the screen on the bottom of the pickup tube.  The tube is sealed with rubber O rings where it goes through the plate and sump to ensure an air tight seal - you do not want any air leaks.
 
The system holds 4.3 quarts of oil (you could have more by making the sump larger - but after 325 hours, my conclusion is you don't need more - after all this is not an aircraft engine {:>)).
 
Here are a couple of photos that make made this clearer.  The long blue tube is the oil filler, you can see the oil pickup arching out of the plate and into the top of the sump.
 
Hope this helps
 
Ed
 
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, April 14, 2006 9:48 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Oil tank

My current problem:  I don't want to take up the space below the engine with the larger 13b oil pan.  I was thinking of doing something like Ed has.  I can use the renesis pan as a collector or make a blank out of alluminum, pipe the oil to a tank sitting on the side of the engine, then plumb it back into the pump. 
 
Ed, how does your system get the oil to the tank?  How big is the tank?  How did you connect back to the pick-up?
 
As always, any comments and constructive criticism are welcome.
 
Chris
 
P.S.  Sorry I missed everyone at Sun and Fun.  Was there a rotary hangout that I missed?


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