In a message dated 3/7/2006 7:39:18 PM Eastern Standard Time,
RDarrah@austin.rr.com writes:
1. Leaks in the system on the pressure side of
the pump (that famous O ring in the front cover)?
2. The manor in
which the oil pump chain is lubricated.
If number 2 is the reason, I can keep
going. What is normal here?
Bob Darrah
20B
Well, that is interesting. I have never tried that vacuum idea.
Hold the oil "pressure out" line straight up and pour in a quart of oil.
This will run backwards into and through the pump. It will take a long long
time.
Remove the oil filter adapter and pour a half quart into the inner
hole. It goes to the upper oil gallery and to the rear main bearing. It will
take a long time. This will charge the main bearing galleries.
It hasn't run yet, so the front "O" ring failure is unlikely.
Leave the oil pressure out line off and aimed into a coffee can. Re connect
the oil filter adapter. Disconnect the banjo fitting and place it in a coffee
can.
With no ignition system. And no spark plugs, spin the engine with the
starter until oil pours out of the end of the pressure out line. Now clean up
the end of the hose and reconnect it to your filters/coolers, whatever. Now spin
the engine again until oil pours out of the banjo fitting.
Clean it up and reconnect it to the engine. Spin the engine again with the
oil pressure sender line disconnected. Pack in paper towels around the outlet.
Spin the engine again until oil shoots out of the sender hole. Reconnect the
sender and spin the engine while watching the oil pressure gage.
Leaving the system assembled can eliminate the pump priming at all, as the
smallest amount of resistance on the pressure side of a dry pump will keep it
from pumping.
Always prime the pump with Vaseline or bearing grease during assembly.
Pressure while using the starter may be very low, even 25 pounds or so. At
idle of 1,000 to 1,200 RPM it should snap up to 65-75 pounds. Slowly when the
oil is cold. Smartly when warm.
Lynn E. Hanover