X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from imo-m17.mx.aol.com ([64.12.138.207] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.0.8) with ESMTP id 1026373 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Tue, 07 Mar 2006 21:22:31 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=64.12.138.207; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from Lehanover@aol.com by imo-m17.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38_r7.3.) id q.202.120df60e (26116) for ; Tue, 7 Mar 2006 21:21:42 -0500 (EST) From: Lehanover@aol.com Message-ID: <202.120df60e.313f99b5@aol.com> Date: Tue, 7 Mar 2006 21:21:41 EST Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Possible oil pressure problems To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="-----------------------------1141784501" X-Mailer: 9.0 SE for Windows sub 5022 X-Spam-Flag: NO -------------------------------1141784501 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 3/7/2006 7:39:18 PM Eastern Standard Time, RDarrah@austin.rr.com writes: 1. Leaks in the system on the pressure side of the pump (that famous O ring in the front cover)? 2. The manor in which the oil pump chain is lubricated. If number 2 is the reason, I can keep going. What is normal here? Bob Darrah 20B Well, that is interesting. I have never tried that vacuum idea. Hold the oil "pressure out" line straight up and pour in a quart of oil. This will run backwards into and through the pump. It will take a long long time. Remove the oil filter adapter and pour a half quart into the inner hole. It goes to the upper oil gallery and to the rear main bearing. It will take a long time. This will charge the main bearing galleries. It hasn't run yet, so the front "O" ring failure is unlikely. Leave the oil pressure out line off and aimed into a coffee can. Re connect the oil filter adapter. Disconnect the banjo fitting and place it in a coffee can. With no ignition system. And no spark plugs, spin the engine with the starter until oil pours out of the end of the pressure out line. Now clean up the end of the hose and reconnect it to your filters/coolers, whatever. Now spin the engine again until oil pours out of the banjo fitting. Clean it up and reconnect it to the engine. Spin the engine again with the oil pressure sender line disconnected. Pack in paper towels around the outlet. Spin the engine again until oil shoots out of the sender hole. Reconnect the sender and spin the engine while watching the oil pressure gage. Leaving the system assembled can eliminate the pump priming at all, as the smallest amount of resistance on the pressure side of a dry pump will keep it from pumping. Always prime the pump with Vaseline or bearing grease during assembly. Pressure while using the starter may be very low, even 25 pounds or so. At idle of 1,000 to 1,200 RPM it should snap up to 65-75 pounds. Slowly when the oil is cold. Smartly when warm. Lynn E. Hanover -------------------------------1141784501 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

In a message dated 3/7/2006 7:39:18 PM Eastern Standard Time,=20 RDarrah@austin.rr.com writes:

<= FONT=20 style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size= =3D2>

1. Leaks in the system on the pressure si= de of=20 the pump (that famous O ring in the front cover)?

2. The man= or in=20 which the oil pump chain is lubricated.

If number 2 is the reason, I can keep=20 going. What is normal here?

Bob Darrah

20B

Well, that is interesting. I have never tried that vacuum idea.

Hold the oil "pressure out" line straight up and pour in a quart of oil= .=20 This will run backwards into and through the pump. It will take a long long=20 time.

Remove the oil filter adapter and pour a half quart into the inner= =20 hole. It goes to the upper oil gallery and to the rear main bearing. It will= =20 take a long time. This will charge the main bearing galleries.

It hasn't run yet, so the front "O" ring failure is unlikely.

Leave the oil pressure out line off and aimed into a coffee can. Re con= nect=20 the oil filter adapter. Disconnect the banjo fitting and place it in a coffe= e=20 can.

With no ignition system. And no spark plugs, spin the engine with the=20 starter until oil pours out of the end of the pressure out line. Now clean u= p=20 the end of the hose and reconnect it to your filters/coolers, whatever. Now=20= spin=20 the engine again until oil pours out of the banjo fitting.

Clean it up and reconnect it to the engine. Spin the engine again with=20= the=20 oil pressure sender line disconnected. Pack in paper towels around the outle= t.=20 Spin the engine again until oil shoots out of the sender hole. Reconnect the= =20 sender and spin the engine while watching the oil pressure gage.

Leaving the system assembled can eliminate the pump priming at all, as=20= the=20 smallest amount of resistance on the pressure side of a dry pump will keep i= t=20 from pumping.

Always prime the pump with Vaseline or bearing grease during assembly.=20

Pressure while using the starter may be very low, even 25 pounds or so.= At=20 idle of 1,000 to 1,200 RPM it should snap up to 65-75 pounds. Slowly when th= e=20 oil is cold. Smartly when warm.

Lynn E. Hanover

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