X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from imo-m27.mx.aol.com ([64.12.137.8] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.0.8) with ESMTP id 973106 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Mon, 06 Feb 2006 23:27:04 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=64.12.137.8; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from Lehanover@aol.com by imo-m27.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38_r6.3.) id q.97.703054e3 (3699) for ; Mon, 6 Feb 2006 23:26:14 -0500 (EST) From: Lehanover@aol.com Message-ID: <97.703054e3.31197b66@aol.com> Date: Mon, 6 Feb 2006 23:26:14 EST Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Oil inlet on Renesis To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="-----------------------------1139286374" X-Mailer: 9.0 SE for Windows sub 5022 X-Spam-Flag: NO -------------------------------1139286374 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 2/6/2006 8:16:53 PM Eastern Standard Time, bbradburry@allvantage.com writes: Is anyone familiar with how to remove the plastic oil fill inlet on the Renesis. I hate to take a chance on breaking the plastic, so if anyone knows how it removes?? I also wonder the same thing about the 2nd gen 13B. It has a metal inlet, and would probably be removed in a similar manner. Tracy, you cut yours off on the Renesis and have expressed dissatisfaction with the result. Oil blowby, I think. how did you do yours?? I am thinking about trying to modify the 2nd gen inlet for the Renesis. Has anyone done this? What excellent ideas are out there for lowering this inlet? Bill Bradburry Blowby is a natural outcome of leakage of combustion gas past the corner, side seals, and oil scrapers. The older the engine, the bigger the gaps between the side seals and side seals, and that means more blowby. So, when I build an engine, I use zero clearance between the corner and side seals. So long as I can depress the corner and side seals together and have them pop back up by themselves, it will be a screamer, and have zilch blowby. The problem with blowby is that the stock breather is about 1/4" ID and therefore the flow velocity is high enough to carry away any liquid oil in the filler neck. Even race engine builders seldom use more than a dash 10 hose for the breather. I use a dash 8 hose assembly but I have no breather issues with the dry sump pump. The breather hose actually sucks oil and vapor from the storage tank into the sump area, because the scavenge section displaces far more than the blowby. If you must shorten the filler neck then I would leave the cap off and use a formed 90 hose over the end of the neck. The bigger the diameter the lower the velocity of the blowby, and the smaller the amount of oil it can pull out. This is a big improvement for piston engines also. If you run a crank trigger, you can use the distributor hole as another breather location. You might want to mount a baffle plate on the inside so the gear cannot sling oil directly up the hole. If nothing seems to stop it, you can use a real airplane oil separator and run the recovered oil back into the sump. The taller the filler neck and the closer to the top the breather fitting is mounted the better. Even in the cap would be good. The filler necks are pressed in, and can come out without notice. You can weld or braze on a couple of tabs and wire it down. I have never worked with the plastic parts, so I cannot help there. Lynn E. Hanover -------------------------------1139286374 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
In a message dated 2/6/2006 8:16:53 PM Eastern Standard Time,=20 bbradburry@allvantage.com writes:
<= FONT=20 style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size= =3D2>Is=20 anyone familiar with how to remove the plastic oil fill inlet on=20 the
Renesis.  I hate to take a chance on breaking the plastic, so=20= if=20 anyone
knows how it removes??
I also wonder the same thing about the= 2nd=20 gen 13B.  It has a metal
inlet, and would probably be removed in a= =20 similar manner.
Tracy, you cut yours off on the Renesis and have=20 expressed
dissatisfaction with the result.  Oil blowby, I think.&n= bsp;=20 how did you do
yours??  I am thinking about trying to modify the 2= nd=20 gen inlet for the
Renesis.  Has anyone done this?  What excel= lent=20 ideas are out there for
lowering this inlet?
Bill=20 Bradburry
Blowby is a natural outcome of leakage of combustion gas past the=20 corner, side seals, and oil scrapers. The older the engine, the bigger=20= the=20 gaps between the side seals and side seals, and that means more blowby.
 
So, when I build an engine, I use zero clearance between the corner and= =20 side seals. So long as I can depress the corner and side seals together and=20= have=20 them pop back up by themselves, it will be a screamer, and have zilch=20 blowby.
 
The problem with blowby is that the stock breather is about 1/4" ID and= =20 therefore the flow velocity is high enough to carry away any liquid oil in t= he=20 filler neck. Even race engine builders seldom use more than a dash 10 hose f= or=20 the breather.
 
I use a dash 8 hose assembly but I have no breather issues with the dry= =20 sump pump. The breather hose actually sucks oil and vapor from the storage t= ank=20 into the sump area, because the scavenge section displaces far more than the= =20 blowby.
 
If you must shorten the filler neck then I would leave the cap off and=20= use=20 a formed 90 hose over the end of the neck. The bigger the diameter the lower= the=20 velocity of the blowby, and the smaller the amount of oil it can pull out. T= his=20 is a big improvement for piston engines also. If you run a crank trigger, yo= u=20 can use the distributor hole as another breather location. You might want to= =20 mount a baffle plate on the inside so the gear cannot sling oil directly up=20= the=20 hole. If nothing seems to stop it, you can use a real airplane oil separator= and=20 run the recovered oil back into the sump.
 
The taller the filler neck and the closer to the top the breather fitti= ng=20 is mounted the better.
 
Even in the cap would be good. 
 
The filler necks are pressed in, and can come out without notice. You c= an=20 weld or braze on a couple of tabs and wire it down. I have never worked with= the=20 plastic parts, so I cannot help there.
 
 
Lynn E. Hanover
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