-------------- Original message from "BillDube@killacycle.com" <billdube@killacycle.com>: --------------


> I used a piece of 1" x 1" pine cove molding, 17" long. I drilled a
> large hole in the center and small holes on either end to accommodate long
> sheet metal screws.
>
> I oriented the wood to line up with the keyway and the center of
> the counterweight (thick section) so the flywheel would also balance fore
> and aft while the tip of the screw leveled it side-to-side.
>
> I lined up the center hole with the center hole in the flywheel
> (by eye.) I then used two strips of duct tape (about equal length) to
> attach the wood to the edges of the flywheel.
>
> When I was checking the automatic counterweight, I used the edge
> of the bench to align the screw tip on the wood with the center of two of
> the bolt holes. I then put the whole rig on the lawn mower blade balancer.
>
> There is probably a much more precise way of doing all this, but
> this was simple and quick and seemed to be "good enough."
>
> I'll take a picture tonight if anyone is interested.
>
> At 11:50 PM 12/4/2005, you wrote:
>
> >Bill,
> >I'm guessing
> >1. the timber is firmly attached to the flywheel/flexplate at the opposite
> >end of the
> >scales or the centre ( centre would be better).
> >2. That the timber itself (with screws) was balanced e.g equi-distance each
> >side of the flywheel etc.
> >3. That the timber went through the centre of the heaviest section of the
> >flywheel/flexplate (counter weight), which was closest to the scales.
> >
> >Mind you I had to read it a couple of times, but it's a good idea when
> >changing form manual to auto flexplate to check for this.
> >
> >I think I will rig something up to check for myself - thanks for the tip!!
> >
> >George ( down under)
> >
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