X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from sccrmhc13.comcast.net ([204.127.202.64] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.3.4) with ESMTP id 988095 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Tue, 07 Jun 2005 22:33:08 -0400 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=204.127.202.64; envelope-from=jesse@jessfarr.com Received: from office5 (pcp04959909pcs.midval01.tn.comcast.net[68.59.199.44]) by comcast.net (sccrmhc13) with SMTP id <2005060802322101600e0rfae>; Wed, 8 Jun 2005 02:32:21 +0000 Message-ID: <0c8d01c56bd2$331e86f0$057ba8c0@farr.com> From: "jesse farr" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" References: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Overhaul Manual for/By Ed Anderson Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2005 22:31:39 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/related; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0C89_01C56BB0.ABDD9990"; type="multipart/alternative" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2900.2180 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2180 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0C89_01C56BB0.ABDD9990 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_001_0C8A_01C56BB0.ABDD9990" ------=_NextPart_001_0C8A_01C56BB0.ABDD9990 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable done - as follows For those of you who are entertaining disassembling and rebuilding an = engine, I can not emphasize too strongly the need for a system so you = can put ever part back in its original slot (even if you are going to = replace some of the parts) . I use plastic ziplock sandwich bags with = the following annotation scheme: RR or FR (Rear Rotor or Front Rotor) Mark or otherwise identify each = rotor - they both look alike two days down the road. GS or CS (Gearside or Clearside) ( have used Inside or Outside/Inside = to designate which face of the rotor - but I think this is clearer) On the side you first see when disassembly, I pick an vertex (apex area) = which is different from the other - like may have no lightening pockets = - anything will do just so you can tell. I then draw a picture of that = face and lable the vertexs as 1, 2, 3 going clockwise from the choosen = vertex. Then I lable the sandwich bag 1--->2 ( for parts from Vertex 1 to = Vertex 2 - but not including 2). So this would include the corner seal, = apex seal, apex springs, side seal (from 1 to 2) and side seal spring. = If the apex seal assembly is in the bag for vertex 1 the 1 is circled. So bag 2 for the rear rotor gear side (GS) would be marked RR GS 2--->3 = (2 circled) meaing the vertex 2 corner seal, apex seal (and their = springs) and the side seal and its spring from vertex 2 to 3 would be in = the bag. Bag 3 would be marked RR GS 3 --> 1 completing the circle.and I would = end up with three bags Bag 1 would be markded RR GS 1--->2 (1 circled - you can put the apex = seal in the clearside bags just circle the vertex number that the apex = belongs to) Bag 2 would be marked RR GS 2--->3 Similarly on the clearside (no gear) 3 more bags would be labled RR CS 1--->2 this time the one is not circled because already have the = apex seal/springs in bag from gear side. So this bag would just contain = the Clearside corner seal and spring and the side seal and spring from = vertex 1 to 2.=20 NOTE when you flip the rotor over to this side the vertex count goes = counterclock wise if you want this sides 1,2,3 to match the front side = (recommend!). RR CS 2--->3 RR CS 3--->1 Similarly for the front rotor. Here are some potential Gotchas in rebuild assuming you might reuse some = of the none wearing parts (keep in mind this is only the 4th time I've = opened up a rotary - so no expert by any mean): 1. Forgetting what goes where - a scheme similar to above will help = considerably 2. Forget on which housing dowels the "O" ring goes (Look at the rotor = housing it has a recess for the O ring on the dowel that gets an O ring) 3. Did not mark which rotor AND which side you took the oil ring side = seals springs from - they must be place in a specific order based on = which side of the rotor and direction of rotation. Remember on each end = of the spring is a tab. The rounded tab goes DOWN into a small shallow = hole in the spring slot, the squared tab at the other end always faces = up in the slot. 3 a. For heavens sake don't install the metal oil ring seal before you = put the spring in the groove, otherwise you have to dig the ring back = out (also don't forget to put the rubber "O" ring in the metal ring or = the same applies). 3 b. When you do put the metal oil ring into its slot remember there is = a small square indention on its bottom side that MUST go over the square = shaped tab of the ring's spring which is pointing up. Be careful not = distrub the spring so that the rounded end pops out of the shallow = indention it is in. 3c . Use a 2x6 not a 2x4 when pressing the oil control ring into its = slot - then place the OLD metal ring over its new counter part and press = again with the 2x6 (you can often hear a pop when they slide into = position in their slots). Both rings should move up and down in their = slots when finished. 4. The outside coolant "O" ring ( the largest) must be placed in its = groove so that the tallest orientation of the rubber stands up in the = groove. Yes the cross section of this O ring is rectangular. The stock = O ring has white paint on the side that is suppose to face the outside = of the engine - but some kits not using stock seals have no white side. 5. Don't forget the rear bearing housing has an O ring around its base = (easy to miss in that grove). This O ring is slightly smaller than the = oil seal O rings and thinner. 6. When you put the side seal (assuming you are reusing it as I am) = back in a slot - you can tell which side goes down as it will have small = burnish marks where the side seal spring rubbed it. Hold it to the = light just right and you can see them. 7. The small trianglar piece of the apex seal is inserted on the side = of the rotor (both rotors) which faces the flywheel end of the block(its = the last face of the rotor you see before putting the next item on the = eshaft. 8. Don't forget you have to lift the e shaft approx 1" before you can = wiggle the center housing over the rear e shaft lobe - you can work all = day - but if you don't lift (or have a friend to it) then you won't get = it off. ----- Original Message ----- From: Tracy Crook=20 HI everybody - this is Laura Crook. I am sure you've all heard that = Ed Anderson had another "event" - this time in LA while visiting family. = He actually has two issues - one is the his brakes caught on fire -not = rotary related and the other is that he has an internal coolant leak. = So.... he has to remove and overhaul the engine again.=20 =20 Since he is not near home he has no access to his documentation. He = wrote to me and asked me to post a notice to the list regarding the = overhaul notes that he developed and posted to his newsgroup a few = months ago. He thinks that a few people down loaded it and one may even = be in .pdf format. =20 He REALLY needs somebody to email a copy of his overhaul notes to the = following email address: =20 kinderbac@yahoo.com ------=_NextPart_001_0C8A_01C56BB0.ABDD9990 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
done - as follows
 
For those of you who are entertaining = disassembling=20 and rebuilding an engine, I can not emphasize too strongly the need for = a system=20 so you can put ever part back in its original slot (even if you are = going to=20 replace some of the parts) .  I use = plastic ziplock sandwich=20 bags  with the following  annotation scheme:
 
RR or FR  (Rear = Rotor or=20 Front Rotor)  Mark or otherwise identify each rotor - they both = look alike=20 two days down the road.
 
GS or CS (Gearside or=20 Clearside)  ( have used Inside or Outside/Inside to designate which = face of=20 the rotor - but I think this is clearer)
On the side you first see when = disassembly, I pick=20 an vertex (apex area) which is different from the other - like may have = no=20 lightening pockets - anything will do just so you can tell. I then draw = a=20 picture of that face and lable the vertexs as 1, 2, 3 going clockwise = from the=20 choosen vertex.
 
Then I lable the sandwich bag=20 1--->2  ( for parts from Vertex 1 to Vertex 2 - = but not=20 including 2).  So this would include the corner seal, apex seal, = apex=20 springs, side seal (from 1 to 2) and side seal spring.  If the apex = seal=20 assembly is in the bag for vertex 1 the 1 is circled.
 
So bag 2 for the rear rotor gear side = (GS) would be=20 marked RR GS 2--->3 (2 circled) meaing the vertex 2 corner seal, apex = seal=20 (and their springs) and the side seal and its spring from vertex 2 to 3 = would be=20 in the bag.
 
Bag 3 would be marked RR GS 3 = -->=20 1 completing the circle.and I would end up with three = bags
 
Bag 1 would be markded RR GS=20 1--->2 (1 circled - you can put the apex seal in the = clearside bags=20 just circle the vertex number that the apex belongs to)
Bag 2 would be marked RR GS=20 2--->3
 
Similarly on the clearside (no=20 gear) 3 more bags would be labled
 
RR CS 1--->2  = this time=20 the one is not circled because already have the apex seal/springs in bag = from=20 gear side. So this bag would just contain the Clearside corner seal and = spring=20 and the side seal and spring from vertex 1 to 2.
 
NOTE when you flip the rotor = over to this=20 side the vertex count goes counterclock wise if you want this sides = 1,2,3 to=20 match the front side (recommend!).
 
RR CS = 2--->3
RR CS = 3--->1
 
Similarly for the front = rotor.
 
Here are some potential Gotchas in = rebuild assuming=20 you might reuse some of the none wearing parts (keep in mind this is = only the=20 4th time I've opened up a rotary - so no expert by any = mean):
 
1.  Forgetting what goes where - a = scheme=20 similar to above will help considerably
2.  Forget on which housing dowels = the "O"=20 ring goes (Look at the rotor housing it has a recess for the O ring on = the dowel=20 that gets an O ring)
3.  Did not mark which rotor AND = which side=20 you took the oil ring side seals springs from - they must be place in a = specific=20 order based on which side of the rotor and direction of rotation.  = Remember=20 on each end of the spring is a tab.  The rounded tab goes DOWN into = a small=20 shallow hole in the spring slot, the squared tab at the other end always = faces=20 up in the slot.
3 a.  For heavens sake don't = install the=20 metal oil ring seal before you put the spring in the groove, otherwise = you have=20 to dig the ring back out (also don't forget to put the rubber "O" ring = in the=20 metal ring or the same applies).
3 b. When you do put the metal oil = ring into=20 its slot remember there is a small square indention on its bottom side = that MUST=20 go over the square shaped tab of the ring's spring which is pointing=20 up.  Be careful not distrub the spring so that the = rounded end=20 pops out of the shallow indention it is in.
3c . Use a 2x6 not a 2x4 when pressing = the oil=20 control ring into its slot - then place the OLD metal ring over its new = counter=20 part and press again with the 2x6 (you can often hear a pop when they = slide into=20 position in their slots). Both rings should move up and down in their = slots when=20 finished.
 
4.  The outside coolant "O" ring ( = the=20 largest) must be placed in its groove so that the tallest orientation of = the=20 rubber stands up in the groove.  Yes the cross section of this O = ring is=20 rectangular.  The stock O ring has white paint on the side that is = suppose=20 to face the outside of the engine - but some kits not using stock seals = have no=20 white side.
 
5.  Don't forget the rear bearing = housing has=20 an O ring around its base (easy to miss in that grove).  This O = ring is=20 slightly smaller than the oil seal O rings and thinner.
 
6.  When you put the side seal = (assuming you=20 are reusing it as I am) back in a slot - you can tell which side goes = down as it=20 will have small burnish marks where the side seal spring rubbed = it.  Hold=20 it to the light just right and you can see them.
 
7.  The small trianglar piece of = the apex seal=20 is inserted on the side of the rotor (both rotors) which faces the = flywheel end=20 of the block(its the last face of the rotor you see before putting the = next item=20 on the eshaft.
 
8.  Don't forget you have to lift = the e shaft=20 approx 1" before you can wiggle the center housing over the rear e shaft = lobe -=20 you can work all day - but if you don't lift (or have a friend to it) = then you=20 won't get it off.
 
----- Original Message ----- = From: Tracy Crook =

HI=20 everybody  - this is Laura Crook.  I am sure you've all = heard that=20 Ed Anderson had another "event" - this time in LA while visiting = family. =20 He actually has two issues - one is the his brakes caught on = fire  -not=20 rotary related 3D"Smiley and the  other is that = he has an=20 internal coolant leak.  So.... he has to remove and overhaul the = engine=20 again.
 
Since = he is not=20 near home he has no access to his documentation.  He wrote to me = and=20 asked me to post a notice to the list regarding the = overhaul notes that=20 he developed and posted to his newsgroup a few months ago.  He = thinks=20 that a few people down loaded it and one may even be in .pdf=20 format.
 
He = REALLY needs=20 somebody to email a copy of his overhaul notes to the following = email=20 address:
 
kinderbac@yahoo.com<= /FONT>
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