Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #19798
From: Michael Burke <mburke@southernphone.com.au>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Cooling Inlet Areas/Bernie's RV9
Date: Tue, 5 Apr 2005 19:45:37 +1000
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Michael Burke wrote,
new list member
 
Gentlemen,
I have no expertise whatsoever in this area, but I do remember reading about liquid cooled W.W. II aircraft, like the Heinkel that had major cooling problems when the heat exchangers were placed in the front of the cowl. To solve the problem the engineers moved them back in the fuselage, with redesigned ducting and the problem was solved.
 
The problem as I understood it, was that the air in front of the cowl is very turbulent, and very chopped up as a result of the prop. The advancing blade pushes the air in the duct, and then as it retreats it pulls it back out again. so you have this constant pull / push of the air which is detrimental to good air flow in the duct, not to mention the turbulence of the air in general. The Germans solved the problem by moving the heat exchangers to where they could get a clean air supply.
I'm just wondering whether this might be a factor affecting some of your installations where you are getting less than satisfactory results.
----- Original Message -----
From: Al Gietzen
Sent: Tuesday, April 05, 2005 3:02 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Cooling Inlet Areas/Bernie's RV9

Before we get too carried away by Ed running with a lot less intake area than the ‘rule-of-thumb’ suggests; keep in mind that there are other variables, and there are some simple laws of physics.  The ‘rules of thumb’ assume ability for sustained high power with outside air temps of 90 – 100F.

 

It also assumes an air temp increase through the rad of 40-50F.  If you can achieve higher temp increase, then you can adjust down the flow.  The law of physics is that the air has a known specific heat; i.e., the amount of heat it will absorb per degree of heat up.  Knowing how much heat you have to dissipate, it tells you directly how much flow you need, and knowing how fast you are going tells you directly how big an opening you need to get that much air.  When the intakes are up front behind the prop you get some benefit from ‘external diffusion’ in front of the cowl, and perhaps some improved flow from the prop wash.

 

Having more outlet area then the 1.4 factor may also reduce require inlet area a bit, but at the expense of drag.  Ideally you would like to use some remaining pressure to accelerate the exit  air to near free stream velocity, the larger the outlet the slower the exit air, the more drag.

 

I would suggest that with 28 sq. in. of intake a.) Ed could not do sustained full power climb from low altitude on a 95F day, b.) he is getting greater than 50F air temp increase through the rads, and c.) he is actually generating less than 180 hp because fuel flow estimate will give you a max, which is not actually achieved in a rotary because of unburned fuel burning/going out the exhaust port.

 

I expect he may agree with a. and b. but never c. J; right Ed?

 

Clearly the ‘rules-of-thumb’ give you more inlet area than needed at cruise on an average day.  That’s why cowl flaps are good.

 

Al

 

> Al Gietzen wrote:

>

> > Doug;

> >

> > I agree with your ‘rule-of-thumb’ numbers. My analysis came up with

> > coolant inlet area in sq. in. of 1/3 the HP (.33) for climb out on a

> > 90F day. It assumes a 120kt climb speed for my Velocity. I used 45% of

> > that additional for the oil cooler. Assumes scoop efficiencies of 85%

> > or better.

> >

> > Al

> >

>

> > Second, even if cooling can get out, if it can't get in, it can't be

> > there to cool the heat exchangers. Rule of thumb: 0.3 sq. in. of

> > cowling inlet air opening per HP. 200 HP x .3 = 60 sq. in. Note: This

> > assumes a reasonably shaped inlet cowl which has been discussed online

> > often. IMHO: Berni's plane inlet shape and inlet cowl is fine, but I

> > question his inlet opening _area_.

> >

> snip

>

> > Don't mean to start another stream of threads on an old subject, but

> > we sweated over this one for 3 months and 3 systems and one might save

> > a lot of time by comparing ones system to these simple "works great"

> > rules of thumb which are the result of LOTS of technical and

> > experimental work.

> >

> > Doug Dempsey

> >

> > N6415Q and RV7 in process

> >

> > Colorado, USA

> >

>

> Don't won't do demean or dismiss your experimental work in any way, but

> Ed is running with half the inlet area, and unless something has changed

> with his new found power, he'd doing just fine. Just to be sure that

> we're all talking apples, I can confidently quote him at 28 in^2 inlet

> for coolant, which I believe is half of what you recommend above.

> Reality isn't meeting theory at eye level here, and everyone will be

> much better off if we know why.

>

> --

> This is by far the hardest lesson about freedom. It goes against

> instinct, and morality, to just sit back and watch people make

> mistakes. We want to help them, which means control them and their

> decisions, but in doing so we actually hurt them (and ourselves)."

>

 

I am running with 28 sq inches of total inlet area, much more outlet area

than Doug mentions and  not producing 200HP continuos.  My best estimate

based on fuel flow is I produce around 180HP perhaps a bit more on a cooler

morning.

 

 I agree apples and oranges get compared frequently.  But, rules of thumb

are just that - generally a place to get started.  I don't think anyone

would say that a rule of thumb means the "optimum" for a specific

installation.  Just good enough.  I have a rule of thumb that says given

enough surface area and airflow you WILL cool.  Not too helpful though and

certainly does not address the cooling drag you may impose.  I mean if your

rule of thumb says you have to have sufficient area to let the hot air out

and sufficient inlet to let the cold air in - well, OK, I can buy that - but

not too useful.  If you put numbers to it like Doug has done that becomes

more useful but is not the final answer.

 

For some of us, rules of thumb are simply a gore to understand what's behind

them. How did they come about, what do they mean?  To others they are a

heaven - sent- answer that does not require listening to or reading this

sort of stuff {:>).

 

So I am not certain we need to  necessarily even attempt to explain  Rules

of Thumb, they are simply a starting point that experience has shown will

work (most of the time).

 

Ed A

 

 

 

 

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