Found this on another site........Do not know about validity of content..... Surely
one of our many talented members can tell us if it is good info !! FWIW
-- Kelly Troyer Dyke Delta/13B/RD1C/EC2
Just had to say something about alternators and regulators. If you really want an education on regulators call Femi at Hazotonics, use to be his companies name. He may have changed it but it is in Trade-A-Plane. He owns the company that makes after market regulator replacements, and also repairs them. He is not Electronsonics. That company is something entirely different. He is real interesting to talk to on regulators, and anything electrical. Here is a tip if you want to catch a alternator before it eats up your regulator. Once a year grab your digital volt ohm meter. Hook it up to the aircraft DC bus system. Now don't set it to DC, set it to AC. When the alternator diodes start to break down from age, and heat they start loosing their ability to chop off the AC output from the alternator and you still get your DC current but it will have AC voltage riding on top of the DC. It is kind of cool to read it. Normally the alternator has about .1 or .2 volts AC showing on the Volt ohm meter on a brand new alternator. That's the best the diodes can do to make it a clean DC output. I have seen people put on brand new regulators, and have them destroyed in short amount of flight time due to the diodes starting to go. When the alternator diodes start to go, the AC reading jumps all over the place showing higher voltages of ac like 4, 7, 6,3, 1,2, back to one then back up again to a random number above the .1 or .3 volt range of your meter, all bad readings are over a volt in the AC range on the meter . You could also tell this if you have a Loran installed if you check the signal to noise ration in the Loran it would get so bad it would knock the Loran chain out, that you were using. Saw it on a helicopter I use to maintain.
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