Return-Path: Received: from [199.185.220.223] (HELO priv-edtnes27.telusplanet.net) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.3c2) with ESMTP id 773214 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Mon, 07 Mar 2005 01:49:22 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=199.185.220.223; envelope-from=haywire@telus.net Received: from Endurance ([207.81.25.155]) by priv-edtnes27.telusplanet.net (InterMail vM.6.01.04.00 201-2131-118-20041027) with SMTP id <20050307064829.YVSE24769.priv-edtnes27.telusplanet.net@Endurance> for ; Sun, 6 Mar 2005 23:48:29 -0700 From: "Todd Bartrim" To: "'Rotary motors in aircraft'" Subject: RE: [FlyRotary] Re: extending cowling Date: Sun, 6 Mar 2005 22:48:18 -0800 Message-ID: <00b801c522e1$a5ceb2e0$0201a8c0@Endurance> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_00B9_01C5229E.97B006C0" X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook CWS, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0) X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2180 Importance: Normal In-Reply-To: This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_00B9_01C5229E.97B006C0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit MessageHi Rusty; Congrats on getting it running again. It's much more satisfying when you've built it yourself. The best way that I know of to remove the oil is a de-greaser called SlapShot from Walter. It's in a spray can and does absolute wonders. Just spray it on and immediately wipe or blow off with compressed air. Most all traces of oil & engine grime will be gone the first time, but a second shot will ensure it. A good substitute is brake clean which is available at any auto parts store for a couple of bucks a can. A can of ether will also work well if you have one handy, but is of course a little more flammable. If you desire you can clean it with acetone after this but I've not found it necessary. I just got back from live burn training so I have a few EWP e-mails to answer... tomorrow maybe:-) Todd (Even after a shower, I stink like smoke.... is this how smokers always stink?) The biggest challenge is to clean the cowl well enough to get the oil off, and get something to stick to it. I've got the cowl and all my epoxy crap at home, and will work on this during the week. Cheers, Rusty ------=_NextPart_000_00B9_01C5229E.97B006C0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Message
Hi=20 Rusty;
    Congrats on getting it = running=20 again. It's much more satisfying when you've built it yourself. The best = way=20 that I know of to remove the oil is a de-greaser called SlapShot from = Walter.=20 It's in a spray can and does absolute wonders. Just spray it on and = immediately=20 wipe or blow off  with compressed air. Most all traces of oil & = engine=20 grime will be gone the first time, but a second shot will ensure it. A = good=20 substitute is brake clean which is available at any auto parts store for = a=20 couple of bucks a can. A can of ether will also work well if you have = one handy,=20 but is of course a little more flammable. If you desire you can clean it = with=20 acetone after this but I've not found it necessary.
    I just got back from live = burn=20 training so I have a few EWP e-mails to answer... tomorrow=20 maybe:-)
 
Todd    (Even after a shower, = I stink=20 like smoke.... is this how smokers always stink?)
 The biggest challenge is = to clean the=20 cowl well enough to get the oil off, and get something to stick to = it. =20 I've got the cowl and all my epoxy crap at home, and will work on this = during=20 the week. 
Cheers,
Rusty =


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