Return-Path: Received: from mail.theofficenet.com ([65.166.240.5] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.3c2) with SMTP id 767752 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Wed, 02 Mar 2005 22:30:11 -0500 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=65.166.240.5; envelope-from=jackoford@theofficenet.com Received: (qmail 542 invoked from network); 3 Mar 2005 03:29:12 -0000 Received: from ip-66-45-201-97.nw-tel.com (HELO jack) (66.45.201.97) by mail.theofficenet.com with SMTP; 3 Mar 2005 03:29:12 -0000 Message-ID: <000301c51fa1$1678ac10$0200a8c0@jack> From: "Jack Ford" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" , "kevin lane" References: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] hand router milling Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 19:15:29 -0800 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1437 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1441 Thank you sir. Jack Ford ----- Original Message ----- From: "kevin lane" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 5:37 PM Subject: [FlyRotary] hand router milling > a regular carbide bit for wood cuts well. the secret is to get the larger > diameter bit , otherwise they constantly clog up. I believe I used one that > cut like 1" dia. The 1/2" bits for like mortising hinges won't work. Also, > cut in the direction that the bit wants to travel and it is easier to take a > small amount with each pass. For the wells that I routered, I cut them down > to the full depth, but remained maybe 1/8 to 1/4" inside my lines. Then I > worked to the finish cut line at full depth. WEAR GLASSES! What? Huh? Oh > yes, and ear protection! I machined the 1/2" plate to shape on the outside > similarly after cutting it close first with a bandsaw with like a 6 > tooth/inch blade. The engine mount plate took a good chunk of a Saturday to > make, but they run $500 to buy. The plate ran $75. I used the oil pan as a > template for the bolt holes. My first engine mount plate I made these wood > templates, which was a bunch of work and not that necessary. We're building > 1 airplane, right? (no, you couldn't afford me to make you one too! :-) I > did use a mill to cut the engine mount pockets. We had started to use the > mill to make all of the plate and decided I could do it by hand much faster. > Kevin Lane Portland, OR > e-mail-> n3773@comcast.net > web-> http://home.comcast.net/~n3773 > (browse w/ internet explorer) > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jack Ford" > To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" > Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 2:24 PM > Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: 20B exhaust (so far) > > > > Hey Kevin, > > > > What kind of bit are you using in that router? How deep can you cut > > (Aluninum, I assume)? > > > > Sounds like a poor man's end mill. > > > > Jack Ford > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "kevin lane" > > To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" > > Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 1:56 PM > > Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: 20B exhaust (so far) > > > > > >> Todd - my first engine mounting plate had the exhaust even closer. I > >> bite > >> the bullet and fabricated another one which moved the block forward 3/4", > >> which also solved a water pump/fire wall clearance problem and the > >> starter > >> nose clearance too. I am getting pretty good at freehanding a router to > >> machine the plates. I even have pockets up front routered out for weight > >> savings, all done free hand (just go 1/16th" at a time, and keep your > > mouth > >> closed! chips go everywhere). > >> Thanks for the info. I have some welding curtain material I use for > >> protection which seems to work well. I wrapped my Lycoming starter in it > >> since a cross over pipe comes close. > >> Kevin Lane Portland, OR > >> e-mail-> n3773@comcast.net > >> web-> http://home.comcast.net/~n3773 > >> (browse w/ internet explorer) > >> ----- Original Message ----- > >> From: "Bartrim, Todd" > >> To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" > >> Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 11:58 AM > >> Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: 20B exhaust (so far) > >> > >> > >> Hi Kevin; > >> My exhaust didn't work out exactly as I'd envisioned it and as a > >> result the pipe is almost touching 2 of my mount struts where it passes > >> between them. I was quite concerned about heat damaging the mount, so I > >> kept a very close eye on this area. However it really hasn't been an > >> issue. The paint on the mount hasn't discoloured at all so I haven't > >> been too concerned, however I still check it often. When I first > >> received the EM2, I attached one of my spare CHT thermocouples to the > >> mount to monitor it and while I can't recall the temp, I know it was low > >> enough that I stopped worrying about it. I should've logged it. > >> > >> Todd > >> > >> > >> > >> this is a good point and I admit to have not thought it through yet. I > >> have made two engine mount plates so far because the first one had the > >> exhaust almost touching the exhaust, maybe 1/8" clearance. I will have > >> to come up with some type of shield however. I hope, also, to introduce > >> some fresh air flow over them also. > >> Kevin Lane Portland, OR > >> > >> > > >> > I'm curious if you're planning some kind of heat shield for that mount > >> > >> > strut that runs between the exhaust pipes... or maybe several layers > >> of > >> > exhaust tape... something to keep some of that heat away anyhow? > >> Looks > >> > scary to me, especially when you consider that those exhaust tubes > >> will > >> > likely be glowing red at full throttle. Just a thought. > >> > > >> > > >> > >> > >> >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ > >> >> Archive: http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html > >> > >> > >> >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ > >> >> Archive: http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html > >> > > > > > >>> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ > >>> Archive: http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html > > > >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ > >> Archive: http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html >