Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #18283
From: kevin lane <n3773@comcast.net>
Subject: hand router milling
Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 17:37:13 -0800
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
a regular carbide bit for wood cuts well.  the secret is to get the larger diameter bit , otherwise they constantly clog up.  I believe I used one that cut like 1" dia.  The 1/2" bits for like mortising hinges won't work.  Also, cut in the direction that the bit wants to travel and it is easier to take a small amount with each pass.  For the wells that I routered, I cut them down to the full depth, but remained maybe 1/8 to 1/4" inside my lines.  Then I worked to the finish cut line at full depth.   WEAR GLASSES!  What? Huh? Oh yes, and ear protection!  I machined the 1/2" plate to shape on the outside similarly after cutting it close first with a bandsaw with like a 6 tooth/inch blade.  The engine mount plate took a good chunk of a Saturday to make, but they run $500 to buy.  The plate ran $75.  I used the oil pan as a template for the bolt holes.  My first engine mount plate I made these wood templates, which was a bunch of work and not that necessary.  We're building 1 airplane, right? (no, you couldn't afford me to make you one too! :-)  I did use a mill to cut the engine mount pockets.  We had started to use the mill to make all of the plate and decided I could do it by hand much faster.
Kevin Lane  Portland, OR
e-mail-> n3773@comcast.net
web-> http://home.comcast.net/~n3773
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----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack Ford" <jackoford@theofficenet.com>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 2:24 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: 20B exhaust (so far)


Hey Kevin,

What kind of bit are you using in that router? How deep can you cut
(Aluninum, I assume)?

Sounds like a poor man's end mill.

Jack Ford


----- Original Message ----- From: "kevin lane" <n3773@comcast.net>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 1:56 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: 20B exhaust (so far)


Todd - my first engine mounting plate had the exhaust even closer.  I bite
the bullet and fabricated another one which moved the block forward 3/4",
which also solved a water pump/fire wall clearance problem and the starter
nose clearance too. I am getting pretty good at freehanding a router to
machine the plates.  I even have pockets up front routered out for weight
savings, all done free hand (just go 1/16th" at a time, and keep your
mouth
closed! chips go everywhere).
    Thanks for the info.  I have some welding curtain material I use for
protection which seems to work well.  I wrapped my Lycoming starter in it
since a cross over pipe comes close.
Kevin Lane  Portland, OR
e-mail-> n3773@comcast.net
web-> http://home.comcast.net/~n3773
(browse w/ internet explorer)
----- Original Message ----- From: "Bartrim, Todd" <Steve.Bartrim@canfor.com>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 11:58 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: 20B exhaust (so far)


Hi Kevin;
My exhaust didn't work out exactly as I'd envisioned it and as a
result the pipe is almost touching 2 of my mount struts where it passes
between them. I was quite concerned about heat damaging the mount, so I
kept a very close eye on this area. However it really hasn't been an
issue. The paint on the mount hasn't discoloured at all so I haven't
been too concerned, however I still check it often. When I first
received the EM2, I attached one of my spare CHT thermocouples to the
mount to monitor it and while I can't recall the temp, I know it was low
enough that I stopped worrying about it. I should've logged it.

Todd



this is a good point and I admit to have not thought it through yet.  I
have made two engine mount plates so far because the first one had the
exhaust almost touching the exhaust, maybe 1/8" clearance.  I will have
to come up with some type of shield however.  I hope, also, to introduce
some fresh air flow over them also.
Kevin Lane  Portland, OR

>
> I'm curious if you're planning some kind of heat shield for that mount

> strut that runs between the exhaust pipes... or maybe several layers
of
> exhaust tape... something to keep some of that heat away anyhow?
Looks
> scary to me, especially when you consider that those exhaust tubes
will
> likely be glowing red at full throttle.  Just a thought.
>
>  <Marv>


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