Return-Path: Received: from [216.148.227.89] (HELO rwcrmhc11.comcast.net) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.3c2) with ESMTP id 767623 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Wed, 02 Mar 2005 20:38:15 -0500 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=216.148.227.89; envelope-from=n3773@comcast.net Received: from rv8 (c-24-21-140-241.client.comcast.net[24.21.140.241]) by comcast.net (rwcrmhc14) with SMTP id <200503030137280140043plee>; Thu, 3 Mar 2005 01:37:28 +0000 Message-ID: <00b501c51f91$89762ef0$f18c1518@rv8> Reply-To: "kevin lane" From: "kevin lane" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" References: Subject: hand router milling Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 17:37:13 -0800 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2900.2180 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2180 a regular carbide bit for wood cuts well. the secret is to get the larger diameter bit , otherwise they constantly clog up. I believe I used one that cut like 1" dia. The 1/2" bits for like mortising hinges won't work. Also, cut in the direction that the bit wants to travel and it is easier to take a small amount with each pass. For the wells that I routered, I cut them down to the full depth, but remained maybe 1/8 to 1/4" inside my lines. Then I worked to the finish cut line at full depth. WEAR GLASSES! What? Huh? Oh yes, and ear protection! I machined the 1/2" plate to shape on the outside similarly after cutting it close first with a bandsaw with like a 6 tooth/inch blade. The engine mount plate took a good chunk of a Saturday to make, but they run $500 to buy. The plate ran $75. I used the oil pan as a template for the bolt holes. My first engine mount plate I made these wood templates, which was a bunch of work and not that necessary. We're building 1 airplane, right? (no, you couldn't afford me to make you one too! :-) I did use a mill to cut the engine mount pockets. We had started to use the mill to make all of the plate and decided I could do it by hand much faster. Kevin Lane Portland, OR e-mail-> n3773@comcast.net web-> http://home.comcast.net/~n3773 (browse w/ internet explorer) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack Ford" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 2:24 PM Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: 20B exhaust (so far) > Hey Kevin, > > What kind of bit are you using in that router? How deep can you cut > (Aluninum, I assume)? > > Sounds like a poor man's end mill. > > Jack Ford > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "kevin lane" > To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" > Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 1:56 PM > Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: 20B exhaust (so far) > > >> Todd - my first engine mounting plate had the exhaust even closer. I >> bite >> the bullet and fabricated another one which moved the block forward 3/4", >> which also solved a water pump/fire wall clearance problem and the >> starter >> nose clearance too. I am getting pretty good at freehanding a router to >> machine the plates. I even have pockets up front routered out for weight >> savings, all done free hand (just go 1/16th" at a time, and keep your > mouth >> closed! chips go everywhere). >> Thanks for the info. I have some welding curtain material I use for >> protection which seems to work well. I wrapped my Lycoming starter in it >> since a cross over pipe comes close. >> Kevin Lane Portland, OR >> e-mail-> n3773@comcast.net >> web-> http://home.comcast.net/~n3773 >> (browse w/ internet explorer) >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Bartrim, Todd" >> To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" >> Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 11:58 AM >> Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: 20B exhaust (so far) >> >> >> Hi Kevin; >> My exhaust didn't work out exactly as I'd envisioned it and as a >> result the pipe is almost touching 2 of my mount struts where it passes >> between them. I was quite concerned about heat damaging the mount, so I >> kept a very close eye on this area. However it really hasn't been an >> issue. The paint on the mount hasn't discoloured at all so I haven't >> been too concerned, however I still check it often. When I first >> received the EM2, I attached one of my spare CHT thermocouples to the >> mount to monitor it and while I can't recall the temp, I know it was low >> enough that I stopped worrying about it. I should've logged it. >> >> Todd >> >> >> >> this is a good point and I admit to have not thought it through yet. I >> have made two engine mount plates so far because the first one had the >> exhaust almost touching the exhaust, maybe 1/8" clearance. I will have >> to come up with some type of shield however. I hope, also, to introduce >> some fresh air flow over them also. >> Kevin Lane Portland, OR >> >> > >> > I'm curious if you're planning some kind of heat shield for that mount >> >> > strut that runs between the exhaust pipes... or maybe several layers >> of >> > exhaust tape... something to keep some of that heat away anyhow? >> Looks >> > scary to me, especially when you consider that those exhaust tubes >> will >> > likely be glowing red at full throttle. Just a thought. >> > >> > >> >> >> >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ >> >> Archive: http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html >> >> >> >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ >> >> Archive: http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html >> > > >>> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ >>> Archive: http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html