Ed,
Thanks for posting your inspection
list. May I suggest some additions to the Engine section, such as a compression
check (I think you mentioned this earlier), oil change & oil analysis
(likely covered in your Lubrication System section), spark plug check,
alternator check for noisy bearings, worn brushes (probably covered in the
Electrical System section), also V-belt/serpentine belt inspection. Do
you ever remove the exhaust header and inspect the apex seals and inside the
rotor housings (is this even possible)?
Any suggestions on checking water pump
bearings? On my road bound vehicles, I usually check the wp by wiggling
the fan blade (engine stopped) and watch for excessive movement. Since we
don’t use fans, I can’t think of a way to check for bearing play.
I suppose it can be done by removing the belts and wiggling the wp pulley.
Thanks,
Mark
From: Rotary motors in aircraft
[mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On
Behalf Of Ed Anderson
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2005 4:35
PM
To: Rotary
motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Filterr
or not to Filter: [FlyRotary] Re: FW: Cooling system update
Mark, I have a nice one written
down, but guess it wouldn't take long to do that. Perhaps we could start
one and folks could add to it. They will need to tailor it for their own
installation in any case.
I'll write down what I inspect
(focusing mainly on the FWF area) and post it. For instance I inspect each
inch of fuel line FWF - last inspection I found a stainless steel
braided line which returns fuel from pressure regulator to sump tank leaking
(oozing) through the braid about 2" above the sump fitting- not under any
stress/heat/pressure in that area, so a bit of a surprise - about the last
place I would have expected the line to leak. )
The major FWF categories I focus on
are:
For example on the Fuel system here
is what I check for.
1. Check all FWF Fuel
connections/lines for evidence of leaks/chaffing/damage (examine
connections closely)
2. Drain Sump tank, remove
quick drain, inspect "O" ring - replace drain
3. Disconnect and inspect
coarse fuel filter screens - replace.
4. Turn on Boost(Low pressure
pump), time required to re-fill sump < = 3 seconds
5. Remove and Replace EFI high
pressure fuel filters (Check Saginaw "O" rings - replace if needed)
6. Check Both EFI pumps for
pressure
a.
Disconnect and block fuel return to Pressure regulator (I simply
screw on an An-6 cap to the disconnected fuel line fitting)
b. Check
that Main pump puts out at least 60 psi (Pressure sensor after pump and filter
but before fuel rail)
c. Check
that back-up pump puts out at least 80 psi
d.
Reconnect Pressure Regulator
7. Reconnect components and
test for pressure regulation (40 psi min)
8. Check around fuel injectors
for any sign of leakage (generally a sign of bad "O" rings)
9. Re-inspect for any new
leaks (Important - I have found that at 40 psi fuel can find its way out if there
is any path open)
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2005 1:56 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Filterr or not to Filter: [FlyRotary] Re:
FW: Cooling system update
Ed,
Do you have an annual
“rotary-engine” checklist that you would be willing to share with
the group. If not, then you’ve got my email address. ;-)
Mark
From: Rotary motors in aircraft
[mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On
Behalf Of Ed Anderson
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2005
12:53 PM
To: Rotary
motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Filterr
or not to Filter: [FlyRotary] Re: FW: Cooling system update
Well, Mark, that was easier
than taking the Ross drive off each annual for inspection. Nothing to
show for it either - until after approx 160 hrs of flying when I noticed the
Sun gear and one of the planetary gear teeth were galling. Of course,
then I had a good excuse to buy Tracy's
PSRU. I also do compression checks at each annual although not having a
"real" rotary compression checker all it really tells me is that my
seals are OK and compression is nominal for each rotor (not a big deviation in
pressure between the faces).
I may be a bit anal retentive about
annuals, but in my opinion it is a once a year thing that can catch things
(like the Ross, or radiator gunk) before they become catastrophic. Just my
personal opinion of course.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2005 12:19 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Filterr or not to Filter: [FlyRotary] Re:
FW: Cooling system update
WOW Ed, I’m impressed. I
wonder how many can honestly say they go to this level of detail on their
annuals?
Mark
I stick a small "Inspection
mirror" up through the AN-16 fitting with a small light
shinning on the mirror. (I think next time I will wire a small LED to the
head of the mirror - would make it much easier) I then run the
mirror up and down the side tank and rotate it at intervals looking mainly at
the condition of the small 1/8-1/4" dia cross tank tubes. I look for
blockage or any indication of scale/gunk. Thus far I have found
none.