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Mark, I have a nice one written down, but guess it
wouldn't take long to do that. Perhaps we could start one and folks could
add to it. They will need to tailor it for their own installation in any
case.
I'll write down what I inspect (focusing
mainly on the FWF area) and post it. For
instance I inspect each inch of fuel line FWF - last inspection I
found a stainless steel braided line
which returns fuel from pressure regulator to sump tank leaking (oozing) through
the braid about 2" above the sump fitting- not under any stress/heat/pressure in
that area, so a bit of a surprise - about the last place I would have expected
the line to leak. )
Ed
The major FWF categories I focus on
are:
Fuel System
Ignition System
Lubrication System
Coolant System
Engine
a. Induction
b. Exhaust
Gearbox
Electrical System
EC2
Prop/Spinner
Motor Mount
For example on the Fuel system here is what I check
for.
Fuel System:
1. Check all FWF Fuel connections/lines for
evidence of leaks/chaffing/damage (examine connections
closely)
2. Drain Sump tank, remove quick drain,
inspect "O" ring - replace drain
3. Disconnect and inspect coarse fuel filter
screens - replace.
4. Turn on Boost(Low pressure pump), time
required to re-fill sump < = 3 seconds
5. Remove and Replace EFI high pressure fuel
filters (Check Saginaw "O" rings - replace if needed)
6. Check Both EFI pumps for
pressure
a. Disconnect and block
fuel return to Pressure regulator (I simply screw on an An-6 cap to
the disconnected fuel line fitting)
b. Check that Main pump
puts out at least 60 psi (Pressure sensor after pump and filter but before fuel
rail)
c. Check that back-up pump
puts out at least 80 psi
d. Reconnect Pressure
Regulator
7. Reconnect components and test for pressure
regulation (40 psi min)
8. Check around fuel injectors for any sign
of leakage (generally a sign of bad "O" rings)
9. Re-inspect for any new leaks (Important -
I have found that at 40 psi fuel can find its way out if there is any path
open)
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2005 1:56
PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Filterr or not
to Filter: [FlyRotary] Re: FW: Cooling system update
Ed,
Do you have an annual
“rotary-engine” checklist that you would be willing to share with the
group. If not, then you’ve got my email address.
;-)
Mark
From: Rotary motors
in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2005 12:53
PM
To: Rotary motors in
aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary]
Re: Filterr or not to Filter: [FlyRotary] Re: FW: Cooling system
update
Well, Mark,
that was easier than taking the Ross drive off each annual for
inspection. Nothing to show for it either - until after approx 160 hrs
of flying when I noticed the Sun gear and one of the planetary gear teeth were
galling. Of course, then I had a good excuse to buy Tracy's PSRU. I
also do compression checks at each annual although not having a "real" rotary
compression checker all it really tells me is that my seals are OK and
compression is nominal for each rotor (not a big deviation in pressure between
the faces).
I may be a bit
anal retentive about annuals, but in my opinion it is a once a year thing that
can catch things (like the Ross, or radiator gunk) before they become
catastrophic. Just my personal opinion of course.
-----
Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday,
March 01, 2005 12:19 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary]
Re: Filterr or not to Filter: [FlyRotary] Re: FW: Cooling system
update
WOW Ed, I’m
impressed. I wonder how many can honestly say they go to this level of
detail on their annuals?
Mark
I stick a
small "Inspection mirror" up through the AN-16 fitting with a
small light shinning on the mirror. (I think next time I will wire a
small LED to the head of the mirror - would make it much easier)
I then run the mirror up and down the side tank and rotate it at
intervals looking mainly at the condition of the small 1/8-1/4" dia cross
tank tubes. I look for blockage or any indication of scale/gunk.
Thus far I have found none.
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