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I really think dual alternators would be great - especially if one or both do not require a belt to operate. I'm hoping the design will work on a Renesis because that is the engine for me and my RV 7A. BUT - I just received my Renesis (from a wrecked RX-8) and noticed it does not use the 13 B crank angel sensor. The Renesis has a notched wheel on the back of the serpentine "E" shaft pulley and a sensor bolted to the block aimed at the notched wheel to sense crank angle. 1). The notched wheel would have to be fitted to the spinning alternator rotor and pulley combination. (This may not be too complicated) 2). Will the alternator's spinning rotor with its magnetic pulses mess up the crank angle sensor?
Dennis H.
Jim Sower wrote:
<... eliminate the belt driven alternator entirely ...>
OK. That makes sense. I missed a lot of the discussion. One at each end would be nice if we can do it. My inclination would be to stick with the belt driven unit since they're $30 and proven. Perhaps move to two crank driven units when they're more proven on our application.
I'll just watch you and follow when yours works :o) ... Jim S.
Ernest Christley wrote:
Jim Sower wrote:
I don't see the point of two primaries (unless you're using 1920s era technology like mags). My notion is to have a good, solid ND primary and either a [small] backup battery or [small] backup Alt. If I have redundant primaries, I'm probably too heavy, and (just me) more tempted to drive around with one failed while I wait on parts or something.
Jim, my goal is to eliminate the belt driven alternator entirely. No belt. No pulley. No heavy alternator hanging off the side of the engine on a heavy cantilevered bracket. No need for a cowl bump to give it clearance.
I'm looking for at least a 35A primary and 20A secondary. I'm actually quite comfortable with the idea of flying with only a primary, but if you look at these things they are like an alternator with all of the heavy parts thrown out. The backup is cheap, weight wise. My guess is that the difference between the 20A and 35A unit is the wire guage used in the coils, and you'd need an ounce scale to tell the difference.
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