Return-Path: Sender: (Marvin Kaye) To: flyrotary Date: Mon, 12 May 2003 00:38:36 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from [199.185.220.220] (HELO priv-edtnes03-hme0.telusplanet.net) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.1b6) with ESMTP id 2344187 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sun, 11 May 2003 23:04:55 -0400 Received: from Endurance ([207.194.22.10]) by priv-edtnes03-hme0.telusplanet.net (InterMail vM.5.01.05.17 201-253-122-126-117-20021021) with SMTP id <20030512030453.MFNV23619.priv-edtnes03-hme0.telusplanet.net@Endurance> for ; Sun, 11 May 2003 21:04:53 -0600 From: "Haywire" X-Original-To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" Subject: RE: [FlyRotary] Re: plastic plane question X-Original-Date: Sun, 11 May 2003 20:04:51 -0700 X-Original-Message-ID: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook IMO, Build 9.0.2416 (9.0.2910.0) Importance: Normal In-Reply-To: X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2600.0000 Hi Rusty; You probably already have all the responses on this that you need, but I'd like to second the endorsement of the pour-in-place foam. I've used the two part polyurethane mix from "Fibre-Tek". I find it particularly useful for building ducting under the cowl. use aluminium foil to wrap around items that you need to keep it out of (such as the cooling fins on heat exchangers), then use cardboard and duct tape to create dams to contain the liquid foam, and in minutes you will have hard foam that is easily cut with a knife and sanded into the desired duct shape. Very easy and efficient. Cowl shapes are also very easy as well. It actually can make fibreglassing a blast..... Doh! Did I just say that?!!! I must have inhaled too much of it... S. Todd Bartrim Turbo 13B RV-9Endurance C-FSTB http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm "Whatever you vividly imagine, Ardently desire, Sincerely believe in, Enthusiastically act upon, Must inevitably come to pass".