Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #1375
From: <13brv3@mchsi.com>
Sender: Marvin Kaye <marv@lancaironline.net>
Subject: RE: [FlyRotary] WARP DRIVE PROPELLERS
Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2003 22:35:03 -0500
To: <flyrotary>
Message
I am considering replacing my aging wood prop with a three blades carbon fiber prop from Warp Drive Inc.
 
I would appreciate a succinct evaluation of these propellers from anyone who has practical experience with them.
 
Yvon. 
 
Ask me in about 3 months.  I just got my 3 blade Warp Drive prop a couple week ago, and it looks nice.  The spinner is butt ugly though  :-)    Actually, it's nice quality, but the wrong shape to go with my cowl.   I made some good notes in conversation with the Warp folks, and I'll paste them below if that helps.  
 
Cheers,
Rusty  (now officially N751RV) 
 
 

Spoke with Warp Drive today about a prop.  Their number is 641-357-6000.  They said I would require at least 3 blades for 180-200 HP from a Mazda with 2.178 redrive.  Over about 220 HP, I’d have to go with 4 blades.  A 2.85 redrive would also require a 4 blade even for 180 HP.  This is to be able to absorb the power without overstressing the blades. They said a 3 blade prop on the Mazda would be extraordinarily smooth.  Gotta like that.

They recommend that I start with the standard blade, rather than the tapered blade, because they think I’ll need all the tip area I can get for the power.  Once it’s flying, and I give them some numbers, they can determine if some tapering will help, and the blades can be tapered at that time. 

There’s really no limit to the blade angle, other than cavitation.  They said 22 degrees (about 82”) pitch was the limit before some cavitation would occur. 

Rain will erode the prop leading edge, unless you slow the prop down to 2200 RPM or less, or unless you have the Nickel leading edge strips.  They cost $40 per blade, and are always added as the last step, so they can be added at any time after the prop has been in service.  In fact, they recommend flying the prop first to finalize the length and shape of the blades, then having the LE strips added.  It might be worth flying the prop until the rain proves to be a problem, then having the strips added if necessary.  Probably won’t be needed for me. 

They recommend a max prop tip speed of 850 fps, which is about what I’ll end up with at cruise.  The prop can be run faster, and 3400 rpm for a 7000 RPM engine run should be no problem. 

They sell fiberglass spinners as well, and have a 12” available for about $160.  It will completely cover the prop hub. 

At this time, nobody makes a variable pitch hub for the warp blades at this power level. 

They did warn me that their prop will always be a bit slower on top speed than a properly made 2-blade wood prop.  He said it should be within 10 mph though.  Small price to pay for an adjustable prop.

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