Return-Path: Received: from imo-d22.mx.aol.com ([205.188.144.208] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2.5) with ESMTP id 555199 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Fri, 03 Dec 2004 15:01:54 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.188.144.208; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from Lehanover@aol.com by imo-d22.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v37_r3.8.) id q.15c.44f1f928 (25508) for ; Fri, 3 Dec 2004 15:01:18 -0500 (EST) From: Lehanover@aol.com Message-ID: <15c.44f1f928.2ee2200d@aol.com> Date: Fri, 3 Dec 2004 15:01:17 EST Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: New Muffler Design To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Mailer: AOL 5.0 for Windows sub 138 In a message dated 12/3/2004 1:44:08 PM Central Standard Time, keltro@att.net writes: << I have a 6 port rotary engine and was wondering if the 1988 exhaust manifold that Paul was using would fit my engine. Do you or anyone else know if they are compatible? Thanks, Jim Maher >> I don't know. I make my own from thick wall tubing bends and the Racing Beat flanges. It is very easy to do, and there is a need for a very custom design anyway, not unlike an aircraft installation. I used some available tubing that had an ID of just under 2". The wall is close to .145". I don't know what it was but it worked out great. I had made a set from .120" wall and then wrapped them with heat tape. They melted. So either use stainless for everything, or don't heat wrap the carbon steel headers. That heat wrap sure cools things down. So stainless is the answer. Lynn E. Hanover