Return-Path: Received: from [24.25.9.102] (HELO ms-smtp-03-eri0.southeast.rr.com) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2) with ESMTP id 377485 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Wed, 25 Aug 2004 07:38:28 -0400 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=24.25.9.102; envelope-from=eanderson@carolina.rr.com Received: from EDWARD (cpe-069-132-183-211.carolina.rr.com [69.132.183.211]) by ms-smtp-03-eri0.southeast.rr.com (8.12.10/8.12.7) with SMTP id i7PBbriB024566 for ; Wed, 25 Aug 2004 07:37:54 -0400 (EDT) Message-ID: <002101c48a97$fa95c2b0$2402a8c0@EDWARD> From: "Ed Anderson" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" References: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Attn Rusty : The TRWSSGBP Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2004 07:38:01 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1409 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1409 X-Virus-Scanned: Symantec AntiVirus Scan Engine No question,Dave - much simpler and more cost effective - but sophisticated ? NOT!. Err...I could have thought of that - but didn't want to risk scratching the nickel plating? Actually, like most good ideas - simple and cheap! {:>)) Ed Ed Anderson RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered Matthews, NC ----- Original Message ----- From: "DaveLeonard" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2004 11:53 PM Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Attn Rusty : The TRWSSGBP > Here is my version of the even simpler remover. This is a re-enactment. No > drives were actually removed in the making of this picture. :-) I just > used a 2x4 of approiate length and pried a hammer against the lip at the end > of the case. Worked great for me. Since I had gotten RTV into the bolt > channels I had to pry it the entire way off. I just kept using longer 2x4s > or adding wedges etc to keep the hammer at the right spot. > > What to do if the spacer gets left behind? I don't know, mine came off all > together. But I think it would be easy to get just the spacer off. > > BTW, I was mistaken, my B-drive is just like Rusty's as far as the oil drain > holes go. > > Dave Leonard > > > > Ok, you asked for it, Rusty > > > > The Real World Solutions Sophisticated Gear Box Puller ( in other words, > > > the TRWSSGBP). It raises pulling your gear box (no snickers > > please) to an > > > entirely new plane. In fact, no messy drilling, getting your tie caught > > and > > > enduring that awkward position until at least someone comes to your > > rescue, > > > no aluminum drill chips on your dinning room floor, no ugly > > gashes on your > > > new anodize mounting plate, no more trying to drill a 1/4" dia > > hole, 1/2" > > > from the tall mounting plate 1/2 the distance between two bolts, but not > > > more than 1/2" deep or you will find yourself more than half > > way through > > > the casing. > > > > > > And its yours for the unbelievable low, low, never heard of price of > > $19.99. > > > But WAIT! if you hurry, in addition you get ... well, actually > > that's all > > > you do get. > > > > See attached photos. > > > > I took a foot long piece of 3/4 " diam screw rod from local > > hardware store. > > Got three nuts and a couple of washers to fix. Took a foot length of 1" > > diam pipe and screwed on one of those floor attachment units > > (sometimes used > > to secure railings made out of pipe to the floor). Took the screw rod and > > put two nuts and a washer on it and slid it into the pipe, > > adjusted the nuts > > until the end of the rod (which I also put a nut at the tip) was even with > > the plane of the prop flange. Took a piece of angle iron, drill > > a couple of > > holes that matched the prop flange holes and one about 2" out > > from the edge > > of prop flange for the 3/4" rod. Secured the angle iron to the > > prop flange. > > Place the floor attachment against the mounting plate, place the > > end of the > > rod into the 3/4" hole in the angle iron and start turning one of the nuts > > against the pipe to start the screw rod moving out from the pipe > > and against > > the angle iron. Very quickly the force will break the sealant. > > > > If it separates at the spacer, I then use a gear Puller to pull out the > > planetary gear and/or the gear box spacer. > > > > It took me about 15 minutes to make the parts and now its easy to get the > > gear box off - besides, didn't want to drill a hole in my nickel plated > > gear box. {:>) > > > > > > Ed Anderson > > RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered > > Matthews, NC > > Ed Anderson > > RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered > > Matthews, NC > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Ed Anderson" > > To: "Laura Crook" ; "Tracy Crook" > > > > Sent: Friday, October 03, 2003 8:56 PM > > Subject: The TWSSGBP > > > > > > > Ok, you saw it here first. > > > > > > The Real World Solutions Sophisticated Gear Box Puller ( in other > > words, > > > the TWSSGBP). It raises pulling your gear box (no snickers > > please) to an > > > entirely new plane. In fact, no messy drilling, getting your tie caught > > and > > > enduring that awkward position until at least someone comes to your > > rescue, > > > no aluminum drill chips on your dinning room floor, no ugly > > gashes on your > > > new anodize mounting plate, no more trying to drill a 1/4" dia > > hole, 1/2" > > > from the tall mounting plate 1/2 the distance between two bolts, but not > > > more than 1/2" deep or you will find yourself more than half > > way through > > > the casing. > > > > > > And its yours for the unbelievable low, low, never heard of price of > > $19.99. > > > But WAIT! if you hurry, in addition you get ... well, actually > > that's all > > > you do get. > > > > > > Here are some photos I think self explanatory > > > > > > > > > Ed Anderson > > > RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered > > > Matthews, NC > > > eanderson@carolina.rr.com > > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---- > >> Homepage: http://www.flyrotary.com/ > >> Archive: http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html >