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Here is my version of the even simpler remover. This is a re-enactment. No
drives were actually removed in the making of this picture. :-) I just
used a 2x4 of approiate length and pried a hammer against the lip at the end
of the case. Worked great for me. Since I had gotten RTV into the bolt
channels I had to pry it the entire way off. I just kept using longer 2x4s
or adding wedges etc to keep the hammer at the right spot.
What to do if the spacer gets left behind? I don't know, mine came off all
together. But I think it would be easy to get just the spacer off.
BTW, I was mistaken, my B-drive is just like Rusty's as far as the oil drain
holes go.
Dave Leonard
> Ok, you asked for it, Rusty
>
> The Real World Solutions Sophisticated Gear Box Puller ( in other words,
> > the TRWSSGBP). It raises pulling your gear box (no snickers
> please) to an
> > entirely new plane. In fact, no messy drilling, getting your tie caught
> and
> > enduring that awkward position until at least someone comes to your
> rescue,
> > no aluminum drill chips on your dinning room floor, no ugly
> gashes on your
> > new anodize mounting plate, no more trying to drill a 1/4" dia
> hole, 1/2"
> > from the tall mounting plate 1/2 the distance between two bolts, but not
> > more than 1/2" deep or you will find yourself more than half
> way through
> > the casing.
> >
> > And its yours for the unbelievable low, low, never heard of price of
> $19.99.
> > But WAIT! if you hurry, in addition you get ... well, actually
> that's all
> > you do get.
>
> See attached photos.
>
> I took a foot long piece of 3/4 " diam screw rod from local
> hardware store.
> Got three nuts and a couple of washers to fix. Took a foot length of 1"
> diam pipe and screwed on one of those floor attachment units
> (sometimes used
> to secure railings made out of pipe to the floor). Took the screw rod and
> put two nuts and a washer on it and slid it into the pipe,
> adjusted the nuts
> until the end of the rod (which I also put a nut at the tip) was even with
> the plane of the prop flange. Took a piece of angle iron, drill
> a couple of
> holes that matched the prop flange holes and one about 2" out
> from the edge
> of prop flange for the 3/4" rod. Secured the angle iron to the
> prop flange.
> Place the floor attachment against the mounting plate, place the
> end of the
> rod into the 3/4" hole in the angle iron and start turning one of the nuts
> against the pipe to start the screw rod moving out from the pipe
> and against
> the angle iron. Very quickly the force will break the sealant.
>
> If it separates at the spacer, I then use a gear Puller to pull out the
> planetary gear and/or the gear box spacer.
>
> It took me about 15 minutes to make the parts and now its easy to get the
> gear box off - besides, didn't want to drill a hole in my nickel plated
> gear box. {:>)
>
>
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
> Ed Anderson
> RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> To: "Laura Crook" <laura_crook@hotmail.com>; "Tracy Crook"
> <lors01@msn.com>
> Sent: Friday, October 03, 2003 8:56 PM
> Subject: The TWSSGBP
>
>
> > Ok, you saw it here first.
> >
> > The Real World Solutions Sophisticated Gear Box Puller ( in other
> words,
> > the TWSSGBP). It raises pulling your gear box (no snickers
> please) to an
> > entirely new plane. In fact, no messy drilling, getting your tie caught
> and
> > enduring that awkward position until at least someone comes to your
> rescue,
> > no aluminum drill chips on your dinning room floor, no ugly
> gashes on your
> > new anodize mounting plate, no more trying to drill a 1/4" dia
> hole, 1/2"
> > from the tall mounting plate 1/2 the distance between two bolts, but not
> > more than 1/2" deep or you will find yourself more than half
> way through
> > the casing.
> >
> > And its yours for the unbelievable low, low, never heard of price of
> $19.99.
> > But WAIT! if you hurry, in addition you get ... well, actually
> that's all
> > you do get.
> >
> > Here are some photos I think self explanatory
> >
> >
> > Ed Anderson
> > RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> > Matthews, NC
> > eanderson@carolina.rr.com
> >
>
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